Rio is a city snuggled between a beach-lined jade ocean and forest-covered mountains. While its natural splendors have made it Brazil’s tourist capital, a bevy of casual boutiques, funky bistros and dance clubs have made it a playground for the younger set. And though São Paulo is Brazil’s fashion capital, Rio’s beach culture and tropical climate have made it a showcase for casualwear and bikinis.
Most of the beachy stores are located within a one-square-block radius of the upscale Ipanema neighborhood, whose main shopping street is Garcia D’Avila. Ellus, a top jeans brand, at Garcia D’Avila 73, has sexy, slim-fitting denims with embroidery and detailing in an array of colors, washes and dirty looks, along with tie-dyed and color-stained tops. Around the corner is Forum, at Barão da Torre 422, with more classic, no-frills jeans and silk and chiffon tops. Lenny, a top bikini brand, is at Garcia D’Avila 149, and one block away is rival Salinas, at Rua Visconde de Pirajá 351, with its Carmen Miranda-inspired, vibrant ruffled bikinis.
At a nearby cross street is Casa da Alessa, at Rua Nascimento Silva 399, a quirky boutique with fake leather handbags (an image of a baguette stretches the length of the baguette-shaped bag) and naughty lingerie (panties bear pictures of Catholic saints or are embroidered with “Obrigado, Volta Sempre,” or “Thanks, Come Back Soon”). Around the corner is Osklen, at Rua Maria Quitéria 85, a boarding, beach and casualwear boutique.
Rio boasts many fine restaurants. Gero, at Anibal de Mendonça 157, with its sophisticated Italian cuisine, is ranked the best in town. Nearby is Porcão, or Big Pig, a top churrascaria, or barbecue joint, at Barão de Torre 218, with charcoal-broiled meats at an all-you-can-eat price. Siri Mole & Cia, at Francisco Otaviano 50, offers seafood, including vatapa, a shrimp stew with ground cashew nuts and coconut milk.
For nibbling, go to Jobi at Avenue Ataulfo de Paiva 116, a funky bistro, or Bracarense, an even more laid-back bar at Rua João Linhares 85-B. Both serve black bean soup, codfish cakes and fried cassava balls filled with shrimp and creamy cheese. Jobi serves day and night, whereas Bracarense mostly attracts the after-beach crowd.
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Rio’s top dance clubs also serve food: Carioca da Gema is at Mem de Sá 79, and Rio Scenarium, a bigger, three-floor, antique-filled venue, is at Rua do Lavradio 20. Both feature dance floors and some of the city’s best samba bands.
For a great hotel, go to the French-run Sofitel, at Avenue Atlantica 4240, on the edge of Ipanema. It offers 388 mostly beach-view rooms and in-house access to a next-door shopping mall. A cheaper alternative is the Ipanema Inn, at Maria Quitéria 27, whose 54 rooms have no beach view, but—as the place is one block from the beach—offer more seclusion.