Each year the Couture welcomes a mix of new brands into the fold, helping to link them up with the creatives, buyers, influencers and executives who walk the Las Vegas show.
The 2023 edition is no exception, once again shining a light on some newer talents as well as brands just new to the trade show. Here WWD spotlights a mix of brands in the freshman class of 2023 Design Atelier, the show’s incubator for fresh and one-of-a-kind jewelry talent.
Brand: Nefertiti by Nadine Barbey, founded by Nadine Beydoun-Barbey in 2020; based in Paris and Monaco.
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Price point: Collections: $1,800 to $30,000; men’s collection, $3,000 to $12,000; high jewelry, $30,000 to $80,000
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Aesthetic and materials used: “Beautiful, bold, strong, clean, precise, elegant, chic and vibrant. My manufacturing team is in Paris, we create exceptionally high-quality jewelry for big luxury houses, with a very interesting commercial price point. The pieces have a solid gold weight, which is smooth, silky, warm and very comfortable to wear. We use 18-karat yellow gold, rose gold and white gold, AAA grade white diamonds, AAA quality lapis lazuli, AAA quality red agate/carnelian, AAA quality Iranian-Arizona turquoise, 1st grade white mother-of-pearl, 1st grade malachite, onyx and azurite.”
Signature pieces: “Men’s and women’s bangles, the collections ‘Akhenaten’ for men and ‘Awakening’ for women. We combine various gemstone and color combinations to create a vibrational resonant frequency for the wearer to benefit from, in terms of personal spiritual development.”
Inspiration: “My love and devotion to creating this brand run deep. It unites, connects and integrates beauty, quality and emotional wellness, for men and women via raising the vibrational frequency for the wearer. It is the first time I combine my skills as a high jewelry designer and manufacturer of 26 years for high jewelry luxury groups based in Paris with my knowledge and skills as a channeller in crystal gemstone healing. My passion and life journey studying human science and cosmic history, mysticism, physics, science, spirituality and quantum healing have all been an incredible influence on everything that was designed in my new brand. Nefertiti and Akhenaten’s story, their era and what they tried to teach and achieve in their day encompassed all of these mystery teachings, which have allowed me to explore my own inner world, and shift my own perceptions of the outer world and experiences. It’s given a greater joy to create this story from the heart to give to people.”
Brand: Mason and Books, founded by Jaime Brooks in 2021; based in New York City.
Price point: $2,000 to $10,000
Brand aesthetic and prime materials/ stones used: A modern take on Deco concepts and lines with a mix of motifs that are interpreted in my own abstractions.
Signature pieces: Love Bugs and Bows.
Inspirations: Family and feelings. I especially thrive on translating the feelings in my head into designs. For me, everything can become visual. For example, if you think of the cycle of the seasons, I also have a unique image for that. The Chiffon collection is inspired by the dichotomy between the femininity of chiffon ribbon and the strength of the ribbon as an element that holds us all together.
As a first time Design Atelier member, what are you most looking forward to? I can’t wait to meet so many of the retailers I have been working with in-person. I have grown amazing relationships through social media with so many incredible jewelry experts and connoisseurs.
Brand: Lunar Rain, founded by Melissa Chen in 2018; based in Vancouver, Canada.
Price range: $1,000 to $25,000
Brand aesthetic and prime materials/ stones used: Our brand’s aesthetic is the natural world combined with a touch of Art Nouveau and surrealism. It is primarily made of matte finished 18-karat yellow gold with dendritic agate. Dendritic agate is our specialty, while we also use enamel, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, pearls and more. With enamel, we like to do very detailed micro enameling for our ring designs. The enameling is a time-consuming process but we love the final look of the pieces.
Signature pieces: The dendritic agate animals are a favorite because they are quite unusual. Plus, each piece is one of a kind because of the unique pictorial inclusions in the agate. The Herring Fish Earrings were the first design I did with the dendritic agate and the other animals grew from that idea. The enameled rings are also popular because they are so cute and colorful.
Inspiration: I live by the sea, constantly inspired by the sea creatures I come across. That’s why our oceanic Full Fathom Five Collection is our brand’s largest collection. I’m also inspired by mythical creatures, Renaissance tapestries, Art Nouveau, etc. I like to look at a lot of art and nature and mix things up with my personal style aesthetic.
As a first time Design Atelier member, what are you most looking forward to? For our first Couture show, we are looking forward to meeting and connecting with many businesses in the fine jewelry industry. We can’t wait to meet retailers from overseas as well as from the U.S. and Canada.
Brand: Kloto, founded by Senem Gencoglu in 2019; based in Istanbul.
Price range: $500 to $12,000
Brand aesthetic and materials used: Kloto pieces are designed to become future heirlooms. Sculptural, emotional forms with timeless, effortless, functional qualities. We use 18-karat gold, sterling silver and diamonds. We love mixing metals.
Signature pieces: Coil earrings wrap around the earlobe, creating the illusion of wearing two earrings in one, the Geo ring is a bold and powerful form that artfully blends 18-karat gold and sterling silver. With its fluid form, the Radiant ring embodies the essence of elegant simplicity.
Inspiration: Growing up in a family of jewelry-makers rooted in the culture and spirit of Istanbul’s gem the Grand Bazaar, I developed a passion for design that led me to study industrial design. The jewelry pieces I create are a harmonious fusion of my cultural background and design education. Each piece embodies openness. A fluidity not just through form but in purpose, made to occupy the space between gender, age or formality of occasion.
As a first time Design Atelier member, what are you most looking forward to? I’m excited to get inspired, meet fellow designers and connect with jewelry enthusiasts that share my passion for design, art and craft.
Brand: Maison Alix Dumas, founded by Alix Dumas in 2020; based between Paris and Brittany, France.
Price point: $5,000 to $100,000 and more
Aesthetic and prime materials/stones used: The offer is to create each year a few poetical and inspired contemporary pieces in a dialogue between design and art. Light and volume are at the heart of creation. I use precious metals with high ethical and ecological values, both fair mined and recycled. I love to use old mine diamonds for their light and shine. A lover of color, I use ethically sourced gemstones and innovative materials like titanium to work on color in a new way.
Signature pieces: The Eternity collection and more specifically the Eternity night ring, an amazing piece where the borders between the front and back of a jewel are blurred into a starry night.
Inspiration: I am constantly marveling at the perfect imperfections of nature. My wonderment often settles on the way light or color plays on a movement, a volume. I try to capture the emotion I felt, and translate it into a jewelry art piece. The inspiration can come from nature directly, or from art, street art, decorative arts. The most important is the feeling of beauty and transcendence infused in the piece.
As a first time Design Atelier member, what are you most looking forward to? I know the American community of jewelry lovers is very committed, and I can’t wait to interact with everybody. It’s also a wonderful way to expand our knowledge of the contemporary creation scene and actors.
Brand: Rainbow K, founded by Kelia Toledano and Kelly Souied in 2019; based in Paris.
Price point: $900 to $20,000
Brand aesthetic and prime materials/ stones used: 14-karat white and yellow gold, diamonds and sapphires.
Signature pieces: The Empress Ring and Piercing Earrings.
Inspiration: A great deal of our inspiration comes through our passions for vintage and the Art Deco era as well as current runway looks. Then we add our twist, bringing the modernity angle into the mix.
As a first time Design Atelier member, what are you most looking forward to? We look forward to experiencing the jewelry community at the Couture show, and building new relationships with all the incredible designers, buyers and press.
Brand: Joanna Dahdah, founded by Joanna Dahdah in 2016; based in Beirut, Lebanon.
Price point: $1,000 to $11,000
Brand aesthetic and prime materials/ stones used: Refined casual luxury with a playful twist; 18-karat gold, precious and semiprecious stones and enamel.
Signature pieces: The pomegranate pendant, the pistachio pendant, the grape pendant and the Mila Heart.
Inspiration: My heritage, art and motherhood.
As a first time Design Atelier member, what are you most looking forward to? Having launched our jewelry brand internationally during the pandemic, we look forward to meeting our business partners in person as well as establishing new partnerships. We are also relaunching my graduation collection Muse in 18-karat gold, which we are very excited about.
Brand: Eden Presley, founded by Gwen Myers in 2016; based in New York City.
Price point: $1,000 to $12,000
Brand aesthetic and prime materials/ stones used: Timeless designs with a touch of whimsy; 14-karat gold diamonds and color gemstones.
Signature pieces: Message/mantra jewelry and one-of-a-kind color gemstone pieces.
Inspiration: My love of beautiful things, pushing the boundaries of fine jewelry.
As a first time Design Atelier member, what are you most looking forward to? Meeting other designers in this community.
Brand: Artëmer, founded by Tomer and Tanya Mikaeilyn in 2011; based in Tel Aviv, Israel.
Price point: $350 to $50,000
Brand aesthetic and prime materials: Minimalist, elegant and playful pieces in solid gold, diamonds and sapphires.
Signature pieces: We are known for ring designs, using triangle and baguette-cut diamonds. The Tapered Baguette Diamond Sphere Ring; Rainbow Sapphire Baguette Sphere Ring; Needle Diamond Tiara Ring, and the Zeppelin Engagement Ring with an Oval Step Cut Diamond.
Inspirations: Geometric shapes, patterns, play with symmetry/asymmetry, reflection, rhythm.
As a first time Design Atelier member, what are you most looking forward to? As an online business, it will be very exciting for us to meet in person both store partners and fellow designers; very much looking forward to seeing and talking jewelry and being part of this community.
Brand: Alexandra Rosier, founded by Alexandra Rosier in 2015; based between Milan and Paris.
Price: $2,500 to $60,000
Brand aesthetic and prime materials/ stones used: Rainbow is my aesthetic, a real decor for our soul. Always working with precious stones and yellow gold, using Fancy sapphires, tsavorites, blue topazes, amethysts and diamonds.
Signature pieces: My Ganesh pendant and my Eternal Love hands necklace.
Inspiration: My biggest influences come from my travels, meeting marvelous people. Also, Jacqueline Karachi from Cartier, who taught me a lot. Then I met a head of the Van Cleef workshop, where he stayed for 40 years; his name was Monsieur Gras and I learned a lot from his side. I also loved working with Graff where I had the chance to see some incredible diamonds and meet so many people. I define the spirit of my jewelry house as love, abundance and undeniable playfulness.
As a first time Design Atelier member, what are you most looking forward to? I look forward to surprises, it is all my wish. Everything will be a surprise, and I am more than happy about it.
Brand: Sophie Theakston, founded by Sophie Theakston in 2018; based in London.
Price range: $1,000 to $15,000
Brand aesthetic and prime materials/stones used: The aesthetic of my work is understated and playful but with a distinctive boldness, achieved through rich colored gemstones and our own bespoke mix of 18-karat gold in the softest gold. All pieces are made with 18-karat gold, precious and semiprecious stones.
Signature pieces: Carved Crystal rings, Divine Eyes, Hands, Sunbursts, polki diamonds and layered garlands.
What inspires your work?: Pretty much everything around me. I am an incredibly visual person and a collector of beautiful things that feed my nostalgia. I collect old illustrated fairy stories, quirky antique treasures and religious art from all over the world. Anything with strong symbolic tropes or beautiful craftsmanship that brings joy and awe. Also, nature and travel are constantly inspiring.
As a first time Design Atelier member, what are you most looking forward to? The opportunity to sit alongside some of the finest designers and jewelry retailers in the world is just a dream come true. I feel very honored to share this space with such esteemed company.
Brand: Alexia Gryillaki, founded in 2016 by Alexia Gryllaki; based between London and Athens.
Price range: 3,000 to 40,000 euros.
Brand aesthetic and prime materials/stones used: All jewelry is 18-karat gold, diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires and pearls.
Signature pieces: Onna-Musha earrings — named after female Japanese warriors and inspired by samurai swords; 18-karat yellow gold, colorless round brilliant-cut and princess-cut diamonds, round faceted rubies and cultured pearls.
What inspires your work? The Onna collection is inspired by traditional elements found in Japanese culture and tradition. These elements, both tangible and spiritual, encapsulate what I believe to be powerful tools in a woman’s arsenal. My work has often included elements of inner peace and self-reflection, mixed with bold colors and shapes, as each person who wears it is a complex work of art.
As a first time Design Atelier member, what are you most looking forward to? I am most excited about being in the presence of such talented designers. To receive feedback from esteemed colleagues, journalists, bloggers and experts is an incredible opportunity for a designer and I look forward to making the most of it.