Naeem Khan, Markarian and More Formalwear Designers at NYFW Spring 2025

The chiaroscuro-style work of Holland-born botanical photographer Leendert Blok inspired Lela Rose to not only use florals, but think about ways of becoming a flower itself.

The Look: Dutch picnic party hostess with peppy homages to retro-Americana.

Quote of Note: “I find so much joy in dressing a table and leaning on my surroundings to bring a sense of occasion,” said Rose of her love for festive gatherings. “I constantly found myself reaching for rich colors, layering ginghams and adding pops of florals. I love the idea of not just being surrounded by flowers, but also bringing the essence of a flower to what you’re wearing.”

Standout Pieces: Upside-down tulip-shaped midi dresses with rosette details along the bust; carnelian tulip lace skirt sets; gingham knit sets and a taffeta trench with attached hood; an orange taffeta back-bustle column; drop-waist pannier skirts and boat-neck tops; a watteau-back mini dress in mocha-colored floral fil coupé; stitched “circuit floral” cap sleeve and scoop neck gowns.  

The Takeaway: Rose proved yet again she’s the one to go to for an elegant special-occasion look that wears easy like a t-shirt. Her clean lines and lightweight fabrics punched up with subtle, yet romantic flourishes were a delight.

Pamella Roland brought a slice of Paris to New York City for a sunset presentation underneath the crystal chandeliers at the Rainbow Room.

The Look: Spritely ’50s postwar couture with a wallop of Old-Hollywood glam. 

Quote of Note: “I go to Paris at least twice a year,” said Roland who will be headed back for market right after the show. Spring is her favorite season in the capital. “Think of all the flowers, all of the pastels,” she continued. “The first look, she’s like a walking flower…We have some faux leather too that’s a little more edgy, but Paris is a little edgy.”

Standout Pieces: A lavender strapless mini with sculpted petal appliqué; a black Le-smoking tuxedo with crystal lapels and caped dress with pink satin bow trim; a skinny-leg faux-leather jumpsuit; a yellow bell-shaped tea dress and powder blue flared suit with lyric embroidery; draped floral chine gowns; a blush taffeta mermaid with ostrich feather tail.

The Takeaway: Roland offered a full day-to-evening wardrobe for “Emily in Paris” viewers who relish in French-girl archetypes. One of those being all-black, which had a strong impact and felt somewhat new for her.

Reem Acra gave her clients exactly what they’ve been asking for: bows, bows, bows, adding the playful embellishment across a range of her core styles.

The Look: Feminine nonchalance, perfect for attending intimate formal gatherings where dressing up is the gift. 

Quote of Note: “This collection is all about summer and it’s about sorbet colors,” said Acra, during a showroom preview. It’s also about, “the bow touch,” she added. “So many customers are coming to me saying: “I love the bow. I love the bow.” it’s very girlish I think, but with a free spirit.”

Standout Pieces: Draped chiffon goddess gowns in Easter-egg colors with crystal and pearl bow-topped gathers; a white bow-accented evening jumpsuit with bust cut-outs; a silvery brocade tea-length tent dress with rose motif and matching cape; the “Olivia” (as in Wilde) maxi dress updated with pearl-accented cap sleeves.

The Takeaway: Working an entire collection around a trimming, Acra could have pushed herself more to use it in experimental ways. That said, her thoughtfully-placed adornments on loose silhouettes were a welcome breather in a market crowded by too-much sparkle and frou.

Naeem Khan lit the Angel Orensanz Foundation green for an homage to 19th-century architecture and the Broadway musical “Wicked,” which debuts on the big screen in November.

The look: Sicilian princapessa takes a trip to the Emerald city.  

Quote of Note: “My collaboration with Universal Pictures for the movie “Wicked” inspired the finale. It’s about darkness, but fun and still glamorous,” said Khan who added: “The other thing you see is my travels to Italy. I’ve taken parts from the different churches I visited and used that in Baroque forms.”

Standout Pieces: Tailored men’s jackets, pants and sarong skirts with fringe and soutache ribbons; ivory and pewter caftans with crystal olive branches; a pink Glinda the Good Witch ball gown with a princess-waist and beaded scoop-neck bodice; a tiered column gown in Elphaba green with sequin mesh Renaissance sleeves; fluttering draped maxis with crow-embroidered cage bustiers.

The Takeaway: Khan merged two very diseparate worlds with a better curated eye than he’s shown in the past. Menswear, which he debuted last season, was a strong point, and something he should carry into his women’s collection.

The Greek restaurant Periyali was a perfect backdrop to Mark Badgley and James Mischka’s resort-driven collection hinged on sunny optimism.

The look: Studio 54 diva- think Bianca Jagger or Angelica Houston- meets a mod Jackie O on holiday in the Mediterranean.

Quote of Note: “We imagined ourselves back in the 1970s on Aristotle Onassis’ yacht, the Christina O, and we were thinking about all of the parties they had, going through the whole day into evening. Everything was so glamorous and nobody lifted a finger,” Badgley said, to which Mischka added: “Some of the best dressed women in the world at that time walked the decks of the Christina.”  

Standout Pieces: A knife-pleated palazzo jumpsuit in marigold floral print with strung floral detail; a pearlescent beaded tie-waist smoking jacket and white fluted hem cocktail; a khaki cotton and lace sundress; a metallic off-the-shoulder trapeze top with three-dimensional flowers and matching jacquard HotPants; a coral tulle single shoulder gown; scuba dresses with petal cutouts.

The Takeaway: With the upcoming presidential election, the designers took a surprising break from dressing the campaign trail to let loose with nonchalant dresses and more separates, which worked.

Anthony Cucculelli and Anna Rose Shaheen gave their edgy faire a wake-up call, getting into the girlish mood of the season. 

The Look: If Botticelli’s Primavera goddesses came to life and formed an alt-rock party band.  

Quote of Note: “The show is called “Hypnos,” said Cucculelli, referring to the Greek god of sleep. The designer, who recently overcame bouts of insomnia, continued: “The whole story is like coming out of this darkness. When I started sleeping again, I had these lucid dreams. I was dreaming very vividly. That’s where all these bright colors and florals come in, and the all-white is sort of the peaceful moment after.”

Standout Pieces: Plunging black slips and a tiered tulle fit-to-flare with Calla Lily and orchid beading; cornflower and peridot bishop-sleeve tent maxis with embroidered lace; embroidered organza bomber jackets with beaded tassel drawstrings and gold bullion details; a white hand-crocheted raffia fitted mini dress and pearl-topped sheer men’s suit. 

The Takeaway: Cucculelli and Shaheen always bring a cool party-vibe to the week and their embroideries remain some of the most exquisite of anyone else around. Still, the pair showed what a good night’s sleep can do to give a fresh perspective.

Designer Nardos Imam built a pink garden set inside chef Daniel Boulud’s Upper East Side eatery, sending out a rollicking parade inspired by Joan Mitchell’s abstract floral paintings.

The Look: Alice in Wonderland at an enchanted tea party with an overdose of Mad Hatter.

Quote of Note: “This collection was inspired by two powerful forces: nature and art. I embarked on a journey of self-reflection to explore what truly excites me and triggers my creativity,” said Nardos Imam.

Standout Pieces: A kelly green taffeta halter-neck trapeze dress; harlequin pattern satin bubble mini; blue plaid portrait-neck gown with high-low hem and flared sleeves; floral embroidered duck-tail blazer and matching skirt with rear-kick; painted tulip a-line gown with ruched sweet-heart bodice; floral printed draped bow gown with three-dimensional roses and organza shawl.

The Takeaway: While Imam’s dresses may be every little girl’s fantasy, oftentimes they read too costume for real-world wearing. That said, her architectural volumes are well-finished .

Designer Alexandra O’Neill brought a youthful feel to her collection of fresh daywear and intricately beaded eveningwear.

The Look: The collection showed her strength in meticulous beading across a range of core silhouettes and new styles. She also debuted her second collaboration with shoe label Larroudé.

Quote of note: “Spring is always a little sweet spot for us,” said O’Neill. “I was thinking a lot about my childhood for the last couple of months. My brother just had his second baby, so just thinking about having a young family and what our childhood was like. We used to go to my grandparents’ every summer and just run wild in their backyard. My sister and I would run around in cute matching outfits as little sisters do, so I kind of did an updated take on that — on that matchy-matchy, ‘80s sense of nostalgia.” 

Standout pieces: A yellow beaded gingham style set, a feminine white dress with intricate floral bead details and playful denim pieces. 

Takeaway: O’Neill shows her understanding of a classic feminine aesthetic and how to update her core design codes with eye-catching beadwork and playful touches. 

Bridal designer Esé Azénabor debuted her first ready-to-wear and evening collection in Rockefeller Center where a cast of ladies who shaped her career walked the runway.

The Look: Bridal maximalism in technicolor with a few honeymoon separates added to the mix.

Quote of Note:  “This moment, while a personal dream fulfilled, is also a tribute to the remarkable women who have paved the way for me. Trailblazers like fashion icons Alva Chinn and Lana Ogilvie, and visionary journalists Harriette Cole and Constance White,” said Azénabor on her NYFW debut. “I also owe so much to my clients whose unwavering support has empowered me to reach this milestone.”

Standout Pieces: A rose printed bra-top and matching ball skirt; a floral lace jumpsuit with plunging scalloped neck; sculpted high-low gowns with cat-eye bustiers and three-dimensional flower appliqué skirts; fitted silver and gold beaded gowns; a violet taffeta mermaid with bubble hem.

The Takeaway: Azénabor came out with gusto. While many pieces were heavily worked over, her muse-as-model tribute added some needed diversity to the week.