LONDON — Textured designs and the continued rollout of control styles were top stories at the recent Hosiery Week shows here.
The new styles are aimed at revitalizing a U.K. women’s hosiery market that has been generally flat in both volume and value for the last several years.
The British market totaled about 400 million pairs last year, the same as in 1992, and rose slightly in value to about $670 million (450 million pounds) at current exchange rates. This compares with 440 million pounds the previous year, according to statistics supplied by Aristoc, a hosiery company subsidiary of Courtaulds Textiles.
The increase in value resulted from a higher penetration of Lycra spandex. The fiber was used in 44 percent of the hosiery units sold in 1993, against 24 percent in 1992. Building on the success of Lycra, DuPont introduced into the U.K. during Hosiery Week its Lycra 3-D construction with the spandex knitted into every course for improved fit, and Microfine Lycra, which is less than 10-denier.
While the control-top and bodyshaper sector has been developing in the U.K. for the last three seasons, it has been primarily at the more expensive end of the market.
For the fall-winter season, such companies as Aristoc, Pretty Polly and Bear, the former Hartstone subsidiary recently acquired by Courtaulds Textiles, are extending their control-top offerings to price points of 3 pounds ($4.44) and below. Traditionally, control-top styles have started at 3.5 pounds. This lower pricing takes control-top legwear into distribution in supermarkets in the U.K. for the first time. Supermarkets are Britain’s largest retailers of hosiery, accounting for about 33 percent of sales last year, according to Aristoc. But while control-top and bodyshaper sales are growing, industry executives admit the British market has a long way to go before it catches up to the U.S.
“The control-top phenomenon is very different in the U.S. than here,” said Brad Walker, managing director of Sara Lee Hosiery U.K., which owns market leader Pretty Polly, as well as Elbeo. “In the U.S., the control-top category represents about two-thirds of total sales, but there still is a great deal of education that needs to be done in the U.K.”
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Building on its success in the control-top category, Aristoc launched a line of support hosiery in microfiber nylon with Lycra for the younger market. Leg Toners, in 10, 20 and 40 denier, offer light toning for the leg and have a light control top.
“Leg Toners are aimed at revitalizing the traditional support sector by making it fashionable and for a younger consumer,” said Daniel Hughes, marketing manager at Aristoc.
Manufacturers said sales of heavyweight leggings are beginning to falter, declining to 17 percent of the market last year from 19 percent in 1992, according to Aristoc.
The heavyweight sector over 30-denier is being eaten into by growth in the 18-20 denier area. “The opaques customer is moving into the semi-opaques area,” Hughes said.
But executives fear another bout of poor spring and summer weather could stunt the revival in lighter-weight hosiery and revive the heavier weight opaques. British women have sharply cut back their purchases of legwear over the last decade as they have switched to heavier denier opaques and hosiery with a greater Lycra content, both of which result in longer-lasting legwear. Per capita hosiery consumption is expected to be about 17.1 pairs this year, compared with 18.7 pairs in 1991, according to Aristoc. The other major trends during Hosiery Week were ribbed designs, metallic opaques in silver, gray and bronze, growth in the knee-high and socks sector and the launch of several sub-brands to focus on hosiery for specific occasions.
Executives said the story for fall will be one of texture and pattern rather than colors, which will mainly be subdued tones of black, navy, gray and burgundy and natural shades. Companies mainly showed their new lines in their showrooms as part of the British Branded Hosiery Group. The group’s members are Aristoc, Bear, Charnos, Couture, Elbeo and Pretty Polly. Also exhibiting in their showrooms were Hue and Wolford. The market week ran through March 4.
The Wolford offerings included knitted ribbed tights in moulines and meles yarns, winter lace styles, and patterns ranging from pinstripes to piano-keyboard designs. Hue’s leggings and socks were in tweeds, cable knits, florals and paisleys in colors ranging from deep, lush tones to naturals.
Sara Lee launched its Philippe Matignon brand in the U.K. during Hosiery Week. The line already is sold in Italy, Spain, Austria, Denmark and Japan and is produced by Sara Lee’s Filodoro subsidiary. The line will be in six styles and shades and will be aimed at department and specialty stores, Walker said.
To retail at approximately $9 to $12 (5.99 pounds to 7.99 pounds), it will be priced above Sara Lee’s U.K. lines, Elbeo and Pretty Polly.