Here are a few designers creating some buzz in the City of Light.
Designer: Koji Sato
Label: 332 by Koji
History: For the last five years, Sato, 30, has worked as an assistant for Michel Klein, pitching in with prints and other tasks. His first job was chez Yves Saint Laurent couture, and he also assisted Martin Margiela at Hermès. When he approached Klein with the project for his own label, Klein proposed to lend a helping hand rather than see his cherished assistant jump ship. They hit on the name 332 by Koji, after the address of Klein’s studio on Paris’ Rue Saint-Honoré.
Design philosophy: With a father who was a painter, Sato gravitates to artistic flourishes. But having studied law in his native Japan, he remains grounded in reality, meaning wearable silhouettes with mesh and silk details. “This collection is feminine and sporty,” he explained. “It’s more about daywear.”
Next up: Sato’s debut features 15 silhouettes, but he’s already plotting the future: He hopes to be presenting on the Paris runway within the next three years.
Showing: Michel Klein’s Paris showroom, 332 Rue Saint-Honoré, 75001; 33-1-42-60-76-77.
Designer: Katia Gomiashvili
Label: Emperor Moth
History: Formerly known as Mia Shvili, Emperor Moth is the new name for quirky Moscow-based designer Katia Gomiashvili’s label. A well-kept secret of the Russian showbiz set, the label went international in 2005 and was quickly adopted by underground fashion types such as Chloë Sevigny, who starred in the brand’s spring 2006 campaign. Sportswear, swimwear, kid’s wear and sunglasses are all new for spring 2007.
Design philosophy: Known for its rainbow-hued embroidered velour tracksuits and T-shirts, offbeat prints are the brand’s leitmotiv with variations for spring including helicopters, sunsets, jungle fauna and pearls.
Next up: Emperor Moth is set to open its first London-based boutique Oct. 19.
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Showing: Jean Demavenssy showroom, 14 Rue Castiglione, 1st; Tel.: 33-1-42-96-32-80; and at Tranoi, Palais de la Bourse, Place de la Bourse, 2nd; 33-1-53-01-84-96.
Designer: Jonathan Riss
Label: Jay Ahr
History: When pronounced, the name Jay Ahr may have the ring of a certain shady oil magnate from Dallas, but Jonathan Riss, the man behind this up-and-coming French label, hails from much more sophisticated pastures. A jewelry-turned-fashion designer whose gowns are crafted in its Paris boutique, Jay Ahr has become a destination for the French fashion set since its store opened in September 2005.
Design philosophy: Angora and cashmere or easy jersey T-shirt dresses for day and diaphanous silk mousseline gowns and satin or Lurex minis for night.
Showing: Jay Ahr, 2 Rue 29 Juillet, 1st; 33-1-42-96-95-23.
Designer: Claudia Rosa Lukas
Label: Claudia Rosa Lukas
History: Vienna-based Lukas likes to infuse poetic, political and philosophical meaning into her designs. “I’ve just been re-building my apartment, which had a huge effect on my work,” said Lukas, whose spring collection shifts from architectural pieces in shades of gray through off-white floral dresses.
Design philosophy: Recovery and deconstruction underline Lukas’ one-off designs, which include multilayered looks made from recycled sweaters and graphic separates cut from viscose jersey, linen, cotton and fine knitwear.
Showing: Claudia Rosa Lukas, Galerie Dominique Fiat, 16, Rue Coutures Saint-Gervais, 3rd, Oct. 5-8; 43-6-99-19-42-57-34.
Designer: Frankie Xie
Label: Jefen
History: Frankie Xie is the first Chinese designer to be included in the official Paris Fashion Week calendar. He graduated from the University of Zhejiang Sci-Tech in Hangzhou, China, in 1984. With his diploma in fashion and textiles in hand, he continued studies in Tokyo before assisting designer Mistuhiro Mazda for Nicole Co., a Japanese apparel firm. In 2000, Xie launched Jefen, a women’s ready-to-wear line, in Beijing. Today, the brand counts about 20 stores in China.
Design philosophy: Xie blends traditional Chinese detailing, such as whimsical prints and elaborate materials, with a touch of European elegance. “Chinese design must be shown at the global level,” he said. “There are many qualified designers who have yet to be recognized outside of China.”
What’s in store: For his spring collection, Xie said he was inspired by Chinese- and European-style doors. “It’s the opening toward a new era.”
Showing: Jefen shows at 10:30 a.m. at the Carrousel du Louvre, Oct. 1. For further information: 2e Bureau/Sylvie Grumbach, Adeline Amiel-Donat, 18 Rue Portefoin, 75003; 33-1-42-33- 93-18.