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Material World: Finnish Fiber Tech Finally Free, Biofab Fair Shines

Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.

Biofab Fair 

Gozen’s Lunaform coat on display at Biofabricate's 2025 Biofab Fair.
Gozen’s Lunaform coat on display at the 2025 Biofab Fair. Rhys Votano

Global network for biomaterialists Biofabricate has fruitfully closed its inaugural Biofab Fair.

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Held Sept. 16-17, across two exhibition spaces during London Design Week, the fair featured 50-plus organizations across biotechnology research spanning the fashion, architecture, interiors, personal care, packaging and construction sectors.

“A world designed with biology isn’t a vision, it’s happening now,” said Suzanne Lee, founder and CEO of Biofabricate. “With the Biofab Fair, we set out to create a space where people could experience bio-innovation; touch the materials, question the innovators and imagine entirely new design languages. What once felt like the Wild West has become a thriving ecosystem of university labs, independent design studios, startups, and industrial manufacturers, creating market-ready products. The bio-believers aren’t just dreaming anymore. We’re building.”

Several next-gen ideas made their debut at the fair as well.

Polybion released the Lapso Lamp: a one-off piece grown from sheets of cultivated bacterial cellulose that was designed in collaboration with Mexican lighting brand Natural Urbano. Biomaterials startup Gozen, meanwhile, unveiled the Lunaform coat, a next-gen garment made with a biofabricated textile grown from Gozen’s trademarked fermentation process.

Hyphyn

Engineered to perform and designed to disappear, Hyphyn—here, featuring Arc-Com prints—with prioritizes human health and environmental responsibility.
Engineered to perform and designed to disappear, Hyphyn—here, featuring Arc-Com prints—with prioritizes human health and environmental responsibility. Hyphyn

Hyphyn will debut this month at the Healthcare Design Conference & Expo in Kansas City from Oct. 25-28. The third-party verified, vinyl was created to address the design industry’s growing demand for sustainable and high-performance materials—and biodegrades over 90 percent within two years in landfill conditions.

“Hyphyn is more than a product; it’s a commitment to the health of people and the planet,” said Iwan Nassimi, executive vice president of Nassimi, the company behind the trademarked material. “With Hyphyn, we’ve reimaged vinyl’s entire lifecycle to close the loop on sustainable design, underscoring that where a material’s journey ends is just as important as where it begins and how it performs.”

Designed to address the long-term sustainability challenges of traditional vinyl, Hyphyn’s patented enzyme system and proprietary resin formulation ensure safe disposal in a landfill without generating microplastics or harmful residues. Beyond landfill degradation and disposal, Hyphyn’s performance and environmental integrity have been verified by a series of third-party tests. The regenerative alternative is free of lead, heavy metals, PFAS and formaldehyde—meeting compliance standards such as Prop 65, RoHS and Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Hazardous Chemicals (REACH).

“We spent over six years consciously developing and testing Hyphyn to ensure it delivered the performance designers rely on from traditional vinyl, without the environmental burden of persisting in landfills or contributing to microplastic pollution,” Nassimi said. “Hyphyn is proof that durability, high design, environmental responsibility, and human safety can, and should, coexist.”

Spinnova

Spinnova completes transaction to buy Suzano’s stake in Woodspin Oy and Suzano.
Spinnova completes transaction to buy Suzano’s stake in Woodspin Oy and Suzano. Courtesy of Spinnova

Spinnova is the official owner of Woodspin Oy, its tumultuous joint venture with Brazilian pulp manufacturer, Suzano, and its on-site subsidiary. Spinnova’s publicly-traded corporate entity signed binding agreements to acquire all shares of Woodspin—and those of Suzano Finland itself—on Aug. 27.

Per that agreement, Spinnova was granted complete ownership of the Woodspin demo plant—reportedly ready to make Spinnova fiber, though operations paused in late August. That said, the termination also means that Spinnova can license its technology freely to “any chosen party producing fiber out of wood-based raw material,” per the term sheet shared June 10.

Those terms, which saw the Finnish fiber firm paying 2 euros ($2.32) for the Brazilian cellulose producer’s shares, were completed on Friday, Oct. 3. Moving forward, Woodspin and Suzano Finland will be included in the company’s reporting as a part of Spinnova Group, the company reported.

EDN Clothing

Launching with men’s underwear, EDN develops clothing free from toxic synthetics, endocrine disruptors and microplastics—designed for people who care about what goes in, and on, their bodies.
Launching with men’s underwear, EDN develops clothing free from toxic synthetics, endocrine disruptors and microplastics—designed for people who care about what goes in, and on, their bodies. Thomas McCarty

Meet EDN: a new-generation wellness brand making 100 percent clean clothing—meaning that there aren’t any toxic synthetics, endocrine disruptors or microplastics present in its garments.

“Research suggests synthetic fibers and their chemical treatments may impact reproductive health, the company said. “While we make no medical claims, our approach aligns with scientific understanding of how clothing materials can influence physiological function.”

With traceability at its core, the New York-based brand is focused on transparency throughout its supply chain—what co-founders Matthew Domescek and Mac Boucher call “farm to closet.”

“We trace and verify every step of our materials’ journey—from the soil where fibers are grown to the finished garment in your closet,” the company said. “This ensures integrity, minimizes material fraud and allows us to guarantee the quality of everything we make.”

For its debut, EDN dropped the Genesis collection: men’s underwear made entirely from organic, traceable cotton. The line features three styles—a pair of boxer shorts, a brief and a boxer brief—each available in the clay, shale and cinder colorways, $38 a pop.

Ciclo

Hector Torres, business development and brand activation at Intrinsic Advanced Materials (left) and Cheryl Smyre, vice president of advanced materials at Parkdale Mills, Inc. (right) accept the Behind the Seams Award for CicloTechnology.
Hector Torres, business development and brand activation at Intrinsic Advanced Materials (left) and Cheryl Smyre, vice president of advanced materials at Parkdale Mills, Inc. (right) accept the Behind the Seams Award for CicloTechnology. Courtesy

Intrinsic Advanced Materials (IAM) announced that the Home Fashion Products Association (HFPA) recognized Ciclo Technology with the 2025 Home Excellence Behind the Seams Award.

The award recognizes a supplier partner that made an “exceptional impact” on the textile industry through innovation, partnerships, integrity and leadership, the joint venture between Parkdale Advanced Materials and Intrinsic Textiles Group said. Furthermore, the honor underscores the company’s efforts to address microplastic pollution caused by the shedding of synthetic textiles.

“We are honored and grateful for the recognition from such a prestigious organization,” said Andrea Ferris, CEO and co-founder of IAM and co-inventor of Ciclo technology. “HFPA’s mission to advance the growth of the global home fashion product industry by setting standards for excellence is vital to the health of our industry; for Ciclo technology to receive the ‘Behind the Seams Award’ is tremendous validation for what we set out to achieve when developing it.”

Milliken

Milliken Assure moisture barrier, the first non-PFAS, non-halogenated, UL-certified flame-resistant moisture barrier for firefighter turnout gear in North America, has been named a winner of the 2025 R&D 100 Awards.
Milliken Assure moisture barrier, the first non-PFAS, non-halogenated, UL-certified flame-resistant moisture barrier for firefighter turnout gear in North America, has been named a winner of the 2025 R&D 100 Awards. Courtesy

Milliken & Company announced its Milliken Assure—a PFAS-free flame-resistant moisture barrier for firefighter turnout gear in North America—as a winner of the 2025 R&D 100 Awards.

“We are honored to receive an R&D 100 Award for Assure,” said Halsey Cook, president and CEO of Milliken. “This recognition reflects the ingenuity of our team and our dedication to solving real-world challenges through materials science and innovation.”

Assure was selected for its design that eliminates two chemistries long used in moisture barriers: per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) and halogenated flame retardants. Its lightweight and breathable construction joins Milliken’s portfolio of non-PFAS fire service fabrics. Assure was developed by a cross-functional team of engineers, scientists and product design experts. It’s certified to both NFPA 1971-2018 and NFPA 1970-2025 standards.

“Assure was born from listening to the fire service and recognizing a challenge that had gone unanswered for too long,” said Marcio Manique, senior vice president and managing director of Milliken’s apparel business. “This R&D 100 Award is more than recognition—it’s proof that Assure is setting a new standard and making a real difference for those who protect us every day.”