Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.
Marks & Spencer x Circulose
Circulose has landed across the pond as the Swedish sustain-tech company announced British multinational retailer Marks & Spencer (M&S) as its first scaling partner in the United Kingdom. The London high-street label will integrate Circulose’s proprietary and eponymous, next-gen material into select products, though scope and scale was not immediately apparent.
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“[M&S] leadership in sustainability and commitment to circular fashion plays an important role in accelerating adoption of next-generation fibers,” said Jonatan Janmark, CEO of Circulose, adding that the partnership is but one of some (still in the works, for now) with other global brands set to join soon.
Circulose is a regenerated material, made from 100-percent recycled textile waste. After emerging from bankruptcy as a new company under private equity firm Altor last June, the rechristened Circulose has been focused on commercializing its circular product.
“Partnering with Circulose allows us to put the concept of circular design into action and will be an example of how the industry can move from small-scale pilots to incorporating next-generation materials at a greater scale,” said Katharine Beacham, head of sustainability and materials in fashion at M&S. “By integrating circular materials into our sourcing strategy, we will be reducing reliance on virgin fibers, cutting waste and helping to build a fashion industry that’s fit for the future.”
The collaboration underscores M&S’s efforts to become a net zero business, across its value chain, by 2040, complementing the retailer’s broader work under its Another Life initiative, which houses circular efforts across rewear and repair—such as its Sojo service offering—as well as recycle and resale—including the latter’s eBay and Reskinned partnerships.
Lenzing
Lenzing has invested 15 million euros ($17.5 millon) into expanding the viscose production capacity at its eponymous plant in Austria plant as the not-so-traditional fiber producer works toward growth in hygiene sector, using its sustainable solutions for feminine care applications.
The strategic move is also part of an earlier-announced investment program of 100 million euros ($116.4 million) toward “securing the long-term competitiveness” of Lenzing’s Austrian production sites.
“This investment represents a strategic step forward—reinforcing one of the key pillars of our nonwovens business and strengthening the foundation for long-term growth and sustainable supply,” said Rohit Aggarwal, CEO of Lenzing AG.
That strategic step kicks off with Lenzing bolstering capacity (and maintaining quality) for the Austrian group’s trademarked Veocel Viscostar material offering. Featuring a trilobal cross-sectioning, the carbon-neutral fiber reportedly outperformed conventional viscose during Syngina values, a standardized laboratory test method used to measure the absorbency of tampons.
“Lenzing’s commitment to delivering sustainable innovation in the hygiene segment is once again demonstrated through this investment at our Lenzing site. It’s a clear signal of our long-term growth ambitions and customer-centric approach in a dynamic market environment,” said Patricia Sargeant, executive vice president of commercial nonwovens at Lenzing.
Melina Bucher x Modern Meadow
Modern Meadow’s Innovera “suede” has made its handbag-market debut with German label Melina Bucher.
The Nutley, N.J.-based company behind Innovera—both the trademarked next-gen material formerly known as Bio-Vera and the brand of Modern Meadow—said partnering with the purse purveyor fell right in line with its purpose.
“Our innovative biodesign technology offers them the look, feel and smell of suede and gives them the creative freedom to customize their designs for any need,” said David Williamson, CEO of Modern Meadow. “Innovera proves that aesthetics, responsibility and performance can co-exist in one versatile, forward-facing material.”
Materially speaking, Innovera is made with plant-based proteins, biopolymers and recycled rubber. Melina Bucher, a vegan designer interested in biobased replacements for animal leather, incorporated Innovera (percentage details pending) into three “sculptural” styles: the half-moon “Loulou” and architecturally-inspired “Tessa East West Bag” as well as the Bailey, a structured handle bag reinforced with Elevate by Uncaged Innovations.
“This launch continues our mission to redefine luxury through innovation,” said Melina Bucher, founder and creative director of the eponymous atelier. “With Innovera suede, we bring together beauty, performance and responsibility—demonstrating that handbags can be luxurious not despite sustainability, but because of it.”
