Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering what’s changing in how fashion is made, scaled or engineered from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.
Haelixa
Haelixa is moving further into luxury anti-counterfeiting.
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The Swiss traceability firm has launched a DNA-based Authenticity Service designed to give brands product-level verification against counterfeit goods, fraudulent returns and high-fidelity replicas.
“Luxury is built on trust. Today, authenticity must be proven—repeatedly,” said Patrick Strumpf, chief executive officer of Haelixa. “By embedding DNA directly into the product, we provide brands with scientific proof they can trust throughout the entire product lifecycle and beyond.”
The system embeds nano-sized, plant-based DNA markers directly into materials during production. The markers are invisible and permanent, engineered to resist removal or substitution. Authentication is conducted via a swab and qPCR test that delivers a binary result in under 30 minutes, according to Haelixa—in turn, allowing verification across retail, repair and resale channels.
The marking process is designed to integrate into existing manufacturing workflows without affecting product quality or leaving visible residue. Haelixa said its physical DNA markers can complement digital product passports (DPPs) and NFC systems by adding forensic-level verification.
“Counterfeiting is no longer peripheral. It enters through everyday operations,” said Klemens Link, director of anti-counterfeiting and brand protection at Haelixa. “A simple test gives brands—and their customers—a definitive answer in minutes and restores control at scale.”
Modern Meadow x Allbirds
Allbirds is bringing a new biobased material to market.
The San Francisco footwear brand unveiled Terralux, a three-style collection made with Innovera, a next-generation material positioned as a leather alternative, developed by Modern Meadow.
“Terralux marks an important evolution for Allbirds,” said the brand’s vice president of design, Jason Israel. “Innovera allowed us to achieve the look and feel of leather in a biobased material, opening the door to more elevated, versatile footwear—while still delivering on our comfort and sustainability promise.”
Innovera is engineered to replicate the look and feel of traditional leather, crafted from plant-based proteins, biopolymers, and recycled rubber. While the material has previously appeared in automotive interiors and accessories, Allbirds is the first brand to introduce it in footwear. Modern Meadow said Innovera contains more than 80 percent renewable carbon content and is 25 percent lighter and twice as strong as conventional leather.
“We’re thrilled to partner with Allbirds to bring Innovera into footwear,” said David Williamson, chief executive officer of Modern Meadow. “Our material’s entry into footwear reinforces its ability to adapt across premium categories without compromising on performance, quality or impact.”
The Terralux lineup includes the Cruiser Terralux, Varsity Terralux and Runner NZ Terralux, an update to the brand’s original Wool Runner silhouette. Allbirds said the collection is designed for everyday wear, blending a more elevated finish with its comfort-focused construction.
Lululemon
Lululemon has unveiled Unrestricted Power: what the technical apparel purveyor called a “new innovation platform” powered assortment that’s backed by thousands of hours of research and development.
“Through deep collaboration with our ambassadors, we identified the specific demands they face during their most intense training sessions,” said Antonia Iamartino, Lululemon’s research and product innovation senior director of franchise innovations. “Unrestricted Power delivers unparalleled support paired with the luxurious feel and freedom of movement our products are known for.”
Unrestricted Power was developed after thorough wear testing with Lululemon’s ambassador athletes, including strength athlete Kayla Jeter and seven-time Formula 1 World Champion Lewis Hamilton. The collection uses Lululemon’s new proprietary performance fabric, PowerLu—made with the brand’s highest filament-count yarn to deliver the right mix of stretch and stability.
“As an athlete, training is integral to my daily routine; I’m always searching for gear that offers a performance edge,” Lululemon ambassador Lewis Hamilton said. “Unrestricted Power complements my training perfectly and feels amazing during every set.”
Rheom Materials
Next-gen startup Rheom Materials is formalizing its push into fashion manufacturing.
The Houston-based biobased materials company has entered into a partnership with Econock, an India-founded design and manufacturing studio, to help brands bring next-generation materials to market. The collaboration debuts with a 10-piece capsule collection made from Shorai, Rheom’s 91 percent biobased leather alternative, set to launch at Lineapelle in Milan.
The capsule includes a bomber-style jacket, an asymmetrical skirt, and several accessories crafted from Rheom’s Shorai—a next-gen leather alternative made with fermentation and biomass-derived inputs.
“This partnership removes one of the biggest barriers brands face when adopting next-generation materials,” said Megan Beck, Rheom’s director of product. “By reducing friction across the supply chain, Rheom can connect brands directly with manufacturers who already know how to work with Shorai, making the transition to more sustainable materials far more accessible.”
The jacket features a funnel neck and dual-zip closure, while the skirt incorporates biodegradable corozo fasteners and paneling inspired by the armor traditions of Indian warriors. The partners described the lineup as a modular wardrobe system rather than a series of standalone pieces.
The partnership addresses a recurring challenge in the next-gen materials sector as well: limited access to small-batch, high-quality manufacturing. Econock said its experience working in smaller, handmade production runs is intended to give emerging materials a pathway to commercial validation before scaling.
“Our partnership with Rheom Materials represents the benchmark of responsible design where next-gen materials meet craft, creativity, and real-world scalability,” said Sanyam Kapur, advisor of growth and impact at Econock.
Ibex x Nuyarn
Ibex is bringing performance yarn into the lifestyle knit category with fabric developer Nuyarn.
The merino-focused brand has incorporated Nuyarn’s twist-free performance yarn into its Nautilus Fisherman Sweater. Produced using 3D knitting technology in Brooklyn, the 8-gauge, 2×2 rib sweater is made from a 70 percent merino wool and 30 percent nylon blend—made using Nuyarn’s proprietary spinning method, which drafts fibers onto a filament without traditional twisting.
“This partnership with Ibex is a perfect example of how Nuyarn technology can be applied to redefine classic silhouettes,” said Monica Ebert, Nuyarn’s vice president of sales. “By integrating our twist-free yarn into a bespoke 3D knitting process, Ibex is demonstrating our technology isn’t just for performance layers.”
According to the company, the yarn delivers 35 percent greater thermal retention, 8.8 times greater durability, five times faster drying, and 85 percent more elasticity—and without spandex.
“We’re seeing incredible opportunities in outdoor luxury—athleisure, sweaters and accessories where performance meets everyday style,” said Andy Wynne, CEO of Nuyarn. “The technology we’ve developed doesn’t have to be confined to technical baselayers. Merino, when spun correctly, belongs everywhere—from trail runners, hikers, cyclists, and skiers to staple everyday pieces that are comfortable, breathable and durable.”
