Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering what’s changing in how fashion is made, scaled or engineered from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.
Modern Meadow
Bio-design company Modern Meadow and leather tannery Heller-Leder have formed Innovera Europe. The joint venture, the former’s chief executive said, will “accelerate the future of sustainable materials through a model designed for global scalability.”
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Its terms included developing a performance suede and a high-quality crust for full-grain alternatives.
“Innovera Europe allows us to meet growing regional demand while driving faster innovation that delivers real value for brands, tanneries and suppliers,” said David Williamson, CEO of Modern Meadow. “This would not be possible without our team’s dedication and our partners’ collaborations, whose expertise and commitment have helped get us to this pivotal moment.”
Given that Innovera is supplied to tanneries as Dry White—rendered as a semi-finished material that negates the need for traditional leather processing’s carbon-loading practices of yore, like logistics—by “bypassing the most resource-intensive early stages of traditional leather processing,” per Modern Meadow. The company added that its Europa expansion underpins Innovera’s global growth goals, too—supporting efforts toward faster iteration and higher production capacity—as intended for the premium automotive, apparel and interiors markets, among other adjacent applications.
“Innovera Europe represents a powerful step forward for tanning globally,” said Frank Fiedler, CEO of Heller-Leder. “By producing this next‑generation material in Europe, we gain faster access to high‑quality Dry White inputs, reduce supply chain complexity and strengthen our ability to serve customers looking for sustainable, high‑performance solutions that integrate seamlessly into existing leather workflows.
Dry White’s European manufacturing debut is slated to start in late 2026—at a future factory to be tailored for regional demand and supply chain resilience that’s “designed for sustainability and precision.
Spinnova x Jack & Jones
JJXX, a denim-centric womenswear brand under Bestseller and a spin-off of Jack & Jones, has dropped a new set made with Spinnova fiber.
The launch features a “versatile outfit,” per the partners—a shirt jacket and matching trousers—made from a blend of Spinnova fiber (30 percent) and cotton (70 percent); the styles come in vintage khaki beige and asphalt grey colorways.
“Working with Spinnova has allowed us to incorporate [its] wood-based fiber into this stylish co-ord set,” said Nanna Hansen, sustainability coordinator at Jack & Jones and Jixx, “showcasing a fusion of great design and forward-thinking innovation.”
While Bestseller and Spinnova’s long-standing partnership dates back to 2020, this launch marks JJXX as a new brand—and the latest—using Spinnova. Since the Finnish fiber firm began restructuring last summer, a slew of non-binding letters of intent have been signed with players including the Cologne-based fair-fashion label Armedangels and the Brazilian techwear brand Insider, among others.
“Collaborating with Bestseller on these new Jack & Jones styles is a great example of how innovation and sustainability can create real value for consumers,” said Pedro Brito, Spinnova’s senior commercial manager. “By integrating Spinnova fiber into fashion-forward designs, we’re proving that responsible choices don’t mean compromising on style. This collaboration reflects Bestseller’s genuine commitment to driving sustainable change in fashion; we’re proud to be part of that journey.”
Evolved By Nature x Leather Working Group
Ancillary leather finishing center (LFC/Thailand) has been awarded gold-level certification from the multi-stakeholder organization Leather Working Group—the certificate’s highest global rating for environmental performance, the LWG Gold Standard, also known as the A1 accreditation within the leather supply chain.
The LWG certifies tanneries for environmental compliance; LWG Gold is awarded to tanneries (like Ecco Leather, collectively) that achieve at least 85 percent in their environmental audit. For LFC/Thailand, this audit process evaluated factors like water and energy usage, waste reduction and chemical compliance. It exclusively uses Activated Silk L1 Biofinishing System, Evolved By Nature’s sustainable leather finish solution.
And that Bangkok-based finishing center is a wholly owned subsidiary of Evolved By Nature, a Boston-based business best known for “Activated Silk.”
Instead of relying on regular larvae inputs, the Chanel-backed platform provider uses “non-GMO cocoons” to source silk. And now, chief executive Greg Altman said, its proprietary NoviCulture process is now validated as a new model for how high-quality, natural leather can compete—and win—at the global scale.
“LFC/Thailand was built to serve tanneries around the world by centralizing finishing, improving consistency and quality, simplifying logistics, reducing costs and dramatically lowering environmental impact,” Altman said in a statement. “By combining a state-of-the-art finishing facility with our biobased chemistry, we’re giving leather producers a practical, scalable way to deliver high-performance articles without having to rely on plastics or toxic coatings.”
The LWG Gold certification was filed with Authentic Thai Leather Co. Ltd., according to Elevated’s statement.
eVent Fabrics
Weatherproof fabric laminate producer eVent Fabrics has announced that Whitespace, the snowboard apparel and accessories brand founded by brothers Jesse and Shaun White, is using the former’s PFAS-free AlpineST laminate in the latter’s Performance 3L Pant.
“Our AlpineST laminate is designed to provide performance and comfort in some of the most extreme on-mountain conditions,” said Chad Kelly, vice president of Event Fabrics. “Our partnership with Whitespace will give snowboarders an incredible option for durable weather protection; like the rest of our offerings, AlpineST is PFAS-free—making it the perfect option for brands catering to uncompromising mountain athletes.”
AlpineST is a sustainable alternative to ePTFE products that provides waterproofness, breathability and protection in harsh environments, built around a fluorine-free membrane laminated to recycled face fabrics. When Whitespace began sourcing materials for its performance pants, chief creative officer Jesse White said Event became “the only choice” that made sense for the brand.
“Not only does AlpineST provide the performance we demand, but like Whitespace, Event is a forward-looking company—making products that help reduce environmental impact by forgoing PFAS chemicals and incorporating recycled materials,” he said. The resulting Performance 3L Pant blends the AlpineST laminate with fully taped seams, features an articulated construction and 4-way stretch gaiters, finished with a PFC-free DWR and recycled materials.
Splendid
Lifestyle brand Splendid just dropped a collection of trademarked-as-climate-benefiting verified cotton patented by Fibershed, a global non-profit consultancy concentrated on sustainable, localized systems for producing textiles and clothing.
“Splendid began with the quest for the perfect tee. This collection is the continuation of that journey—over the past year, Splendid partnered with Fibershed on its development; visiting partner farms in California and learning directly from those behind this work has been truly inspiring,” said creative director Holly Shapiro. “This has been a team effort in every sense. We’re deeply inspired by the experts who have guided us along the way and proud to be releasing our first climate-beneficial fabric.”
For some Splendid background: The Los Angeles label was founded in 2002 by angel investor Moise Emquies, who sold both Splendid and Ella Moss piecemeal to the Icebreaker owner between June 2008 and March 2009. VF’s completed acquisition of both contemporary sports brands dovetailed with the diversified apparel company’s earlier efforts to bolster the Contemporary Brands portfolio.
Focused on the upscale lifestyle sector, VF developed the division in 2007, complete with the 7 For All Mankind and Lucy brands in tow, as its sixth “coalition,” which is how VF groups its businesses for managerial structures, like who does what and how, and internal financial reporting reasons, like “growth engines.”
While the lifestyle coalition pegged mid-single-digit profit at the time, it was deemed a non-core asset and canned seven years later. Ergo Splendid was under VF until 2016, when the apparel portfolio manager sold the underperforming division (at this point comprising Splendid, 7 for All Mankind, Ella Moss) in a $120 million acquisition agreement with Delta Galil Industries, an Israeli apparel manufacturer with 24,500 alleged associates that self-reportedly saw more than $2 billion in 2022 turnover.
