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Material World: Coach, Gen Phoenix Set to Share the Stage at CES

Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.

Stella McCartney x Balena

Balena’s BioCir Flex material is featured in Stella McCartney's "highly anticipated" S-Wave Sport trainers, debuting as part of the autumn 2025 collection and set for release in April 2025.
Balena’s BioCir Flex material is featured in Stella McCartney‘s “highly anticipated” S-Wave Sport trainers, debuting as part of the autumn 2025 collection and set for release in April 2025. Courtesy

Balena has partnered with Stella McCartney. The next-gen material science company’s innovative material, BioCir Flex, will be featured in the trailblazing sustainable designer’s “highly anticipated” S-Wave Sport trainers for McCartney’s autumn 2025 collection.

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The shoe’s sole is made from Balena’s BioCir Flex: a non-toxic, compostable, recyclable and biobased alternative to traditional plastics. BioCir Flex absorbs impact, responds to motion, is as durable as TPU and as flexible as rubber. It is also dyed with natural cinnamon.

Made from sustainable sources—like castor beans, oils and polysaccharides—BioCirFlex biodegrades into renewable biomass when composted in industrial facilities or can be recycled for continuous use.

“This collaboration represents more than just a partnership; it’s a shared vision of a future where materials are circular, sustainable and high-performance,” David Roubach, Balena’s founder, said in a statement. “Stella McCartney has always been a beacon of innovation and responsibility in fashion, and to see Balena’s material—BioCirFlex—integrated into her designs is a milestone I could only have hoped for when we began this journey.”

The Stella McCartney S-Wave Sport trainers featuring BioCir Flex will launch globally in April.

Coach x Gen Phoenix

Leather scraps are deconstructed and re-bonded using a hydroentanglement process at the Gen Phoenix factory in London.
Leather scraps are deconstructed and re-bonded using a hydroentanglement process at the Gen Phoenix factory in London. Courtesy of Gen Phoenix

Coach and Gen Phoenix announced that the two companies will share the stage at the Consumer Electronics Show (CES) to discuss their “transformative” partnership.

Coach’s CEO and brand president, Todd Kahn, and Gen Phoenix’s chief marketing officer and general manager of consumer, Elyse Winer, invite CES attendees to join them on Thursday afternoon for the “Great Minds” panel, offering a “behind-the-scenes look” at how the two brands are working together to drive the industry’s sustainable transformation at scale.

“As a company with 80 years of heritage, Coach is known for its craftsmanship, quality and design,” Kahn said in a statement. “This partnership with Gen Phoenix represents a significant step in our journey to balance Coach’s rich history with a commitment to finding innovative and sustainable solutions that help us create a better-made future.”

Coach and Gen Phoenix first began this partnership to “sustainable innovation and industry disruption” in March 2023, when Tapestry strategically invested in the start-up known for its recycled leather technology. Coachtopia launched the following month. Now, the brands are ready to reveal their future plans.

“In an industry where partnerships rarely extend beyond one-off capsules and pilot programs, we’re thrilled to be using the CES stage as our opportunity to not only give attendees a first glimpse at what to expect from Gen Phoenix and Coach in the coming months, but also what the future has in store for this industry-first strategic partnership,” Winer said in a statement. “By pulling back the curtain on how we’ve been able to scale this collaboration, we hope to provide a blueprint for other brands looking to mirror the meaningful change Coach is driving across the fashion industry, in partnership with Gen Phoenix.”

Lilysilk x TerraCycle

Lilysilk announced the third anniversary of its partnership with TerraCycle.
Lilysilk announced the third anniversary of its partnership with TerraCycle. Courtesy

Lilysilk, the Gwyneth Paltrow-approved silk brand, announced the third anniversary of its partnership with international recycling firm TerraCycle. As of last November, the collaboration recycled over 2,300 pieces—totaling over 1,400 pounds of textiles.

“Celebrating three years of partnership with Lilysilk is a testament to what can be achieved when like-minded organizations work together toward a shared vision,” said TerraCycle founder and CEO Tom Szaky. “Through the program, we’ve empowered consumers to responsibly collect and recycle textiles at the end of their useful life.”

The recycling process works like this: users register online, pack up their Lilysilk and send it to TerraCycle using a prepaid shipping label. The textiles are then cleaned, sorted and recycled into raw materials for products (like mattress fillers and pet bedding).

Each recycling shipment yields customers 100 “Lilysilk points” and a 12 percent discount on their next order. Participants also earn “TerraCycle Recycling Rewards” points, redeemable as charitable donations.

“Our three-year partnership with TerraCycle has been a valuable step toward a more sustainable future,” said David Wang, CEO of Lilysilk. “We are grateful for our customers’ continued support and look forward to welcoming more participants to our recycling initiatives. Together, every effort brings us closer to a brighter, greener future.”

Minnessak

"Minnessak is the Swedish word for ‘keepsake’ and due to the craft and quality of the materials and production, our bags are designed to be used every day and cherished for a lifetime," co-founder and creative director Jas Sehmbi said. "Ultimately, we’d like our bags to become keepsakes.”

“Minnessak is the Swedish word for ‘keepsake.’
Minnessak

UK-based slow fashion brand Minnessak announced a global partnership with military-inspired U.S. brand, Alpha Industries.

Minnessak will have access to Alpha Industries’ deadstock MA-1 flight jackets per the agreement. Minnessak will upcycle the materials from those jackets at its London atelier workshop. The resulting collection will be available for FW25.  

“Minnessak was established on a commitment to upcycling and repurposing everything from fabrics to hardware, and the styles at the heart of the brand lean heavily into vintage military-grade nylons taken from USAF MA-1 jackets,” Minnessak’s cofounder Peter Keep said. So, it makes perfect sense that Minnessak’s first official partner is Alpha Industries, the brand most associated to the instantly recognizable MA-1 jacket.”

Each vintage jacket is hand-cut by Minnessak’s team of ateliers before being recrafted with deadstock Swiss RiRi zips, 20-year-old Italian leathers and hardwearing canvas straps. The FW25 collection introduces some “freshly sourced” vintage Japanese obi silks and a limited edition Halley Stevenson dry waxed cotton run.

“Collaborating with Minnessak allows us to see this influence through a new lens as our iconic MA-1 jackets are reimagined and upcycled into something unique,” Matthew Pantoja, chief brand officer at Alpha Industries, said. “We’re honored that Minnessak considered Alpha Industries as a partner in its innovative journey.”

Minnessak’s complete FW25 collection will be on view at Pitti Uomo in Florence, Show & Tell in Chicago and D&A in New York. The collection will also be presented from Minnessak’s London showroom.