With names like sentimental, immersive, chaos and fragility, Fashion Snoops’ four themes for Fall/Winter 2024-2025 men’s wear reflect the times.
In a webinar hosted by Mmgnet Group, Michael Fisher, Fashion Snoops VP of men’s wear, described the drivers of each theme and how they translate into apparel, footwear and accessories.
Sentimental
“Nostalgia is going to give us a break from all the tougher, darker realities that we’re facing everyday,” Fisher said. Though there is a collective feeling of uncertainty, he said there are still lessons to be learned and “handed down wisdom” that will allow society to “recontextualize the past to better understand the complexities of today.”
This sentimental mindset is driving consumers to appreciate craft, upcycling and mending, and to seek more information about the origin of their garments and the ingredients that go into making them. “The goal here is to embrace some of the richness, the skills and the thinking of the past to carve a really fresh way of design,” Fisher said.
There’s also a desire to add “cinematic charm” to everyday life, he added. Here, maximalist designs with heirloom qualities stand out. Timeless items like overcoats are gaining popularity with Gen Z, as well as bolder items like outerwear with blanket or quilt-inspired patterns, belted cardigans with shawl collars and embroidered sweats.
“Grandma chic” details like embroidery, beaded trim and lacy finishes are also moving into the men’s wear space, which look “super cool” styled with rugged items like denim or cotton canvas pants, Fisher said.
Immersive
AI is launching imaginations into new realms. Meanwhile, economic and environmental instability is driving consumers to make more pragmatic purchases. “We see this huge preference for consumers wanting products that help them adopt a ready-for-anything mindset. Adaptability remains essential,” Fisher said.
These ideas result in a collision of activewear and tailoring in men’s wear. Suiting in “techno crepes and other spongy woolens” look fresh for tailoring especially with “bold high-def color blocking effects,” he said. High-shine parkas, paneled hoodies and mesh layers deliver futuristic function. Denim finds its groove with surfaces that have “glitched effects.”
For accessories, look for shoes with 3D-printed outsoles and color gradients. Metallic leather shopping totes and jewelry with “orbital shapes” underpin the theme’s Sci-Fi influence.
Chaos
“There’s a lot of anarchy in the universe, and it can be unnerving and liberating at the same time,” Fisher said. However, “without that instability, we wouldn’t have an appreciation for protection and belonging,” he added.
Distrust in hierarchies, institution and gatekeeping, and the rise of open-source operations in the wake of supply chain disruptions and ESG reporting are examples of society constantly adapting and evolving.
“It is often said that chaos leads life [and] breeds a vastness of possibilities and pushes us to be more comfortable with the unknown,” Fisher said.
These feelings come together in Chaos, a trend that places value on repaired surfaces, fragmented construction, brutalist shapes and industrial craftsmanship. Taking cues from Rick Owens, Fisher said to look for moto stitching, slouchy leather and scratched or eroded fabrics. “It’s meant to be a sensory overload,” he said about the total look.
Dark neutrals with fossilized appearances and fiery shades of red and orange combin with utility details like exposed zippers and big pockets. Key items include hoodies with quilted details, spliced sweaters, distressed trench coats and cargo pants.
Fragility
The complete antithesis of Chaos is Fragility, a theme centered on the “soft armor of vulnerability.”
“It is essential to acknowledge and highlight how design is leaning into softer, nurturing feminine qualities. We want to honor perceived feminine traits like intuition, care and emotional intelligence,” Fisher said.
Consumers are finding comfort in solitude and prioritizing rest and recovery through meditation retreats and digital detoxes. Fisher added that dialogue about the nuances of mental health is allowing design to take on a “more holistic lens.”
This translates to fashion through light surfaces with luxurious luster, neutrals with a “lightweight luminescence” and grounding mid-tones. Fisher added that streetwear and classic tailoring find a middle ground with boxy rugby shirts, soft pleated pants that “just cascade down to the shoe” and tweed work shirts.