Renewcell, the Swedish textile-to-textile recycler, worked with textile supplier Grace and one of China’s leading denim mills to showcase a first-of-its-kind circular denim blend at Kingpins Amsterdam this week.
The Advance Denim, Grace and Circulose by Renewcell collection is made with a 50-percent blend of Circulose denim pulp made from recycled textiles. The dissolvable pulp is the feedstock for manmade cellulosic fibers, and can be blended with other wood pulp fiber during production. In this case, it was blended with Grace’s Gracell, a high-tenacity viscose produced by Yibin Grace, a producer with a Canopy Green Shirt rating denoting eco-friendly performance.
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According to the partners, the denim selection aims to lend greater commercial visibility to circular viscose blends. Two unique fabrications have been created from a combination of cotton, Gracell and Circulose viscose, including a 10.4 oz soft comfort stretch featuring cotton, recycled cotton, Gracell x Circulose, Ecovero and spandex. The second lighter option is a 9.4 oz performance stretch blend made with cotton, Gracell x Circulose, recycled cotton, T400 and Lycra.
The partnership between Grace and Renewcell builds upon the biomaterials innovator’s recent Intertextile Shanghai announcement about its successful trial of a viscose staple fiber made with a 50-percent blend of Circulose pulp. Grace had previously teamed with Renewcell on a recycled cellulose yarn made with 30-percent Circulose pulp, and increasing the content for the launch.
According to Advance Denim, the project reflects the mill’s commitment to sustainability and circularity, including its strategic plan to use 90 percent or more green fibers by 2023. The first mill in China to receive GOTS certification, Advance Denim aims to produce fibers produced under globally recognized environmental standards including the Organic Cotton Standard, Better Cotton, or Global Recycle Standard. The commitment underscores its efforts to conserve water, promote energy efficiency and minimize waste during production. General manager Amy Wang said the mill “is excited to continue its ongoing commitment to sustainable innovation by partnering with Grace to bring this groundbreaking new fiber to the market.”
“We value the pace at which this partnership came together as it is evident both Advance Denim and Grace are upholding their commitments to sustainability and that they recognize the urgency for action,” added Patrik Lundström, who until recently was Renewcell’s CEO.
The Gracell x Circulose announcement comes days after Renewcell reported that it does not expect to break even in the fourth quarter due to slower than expected Circulose pulp sales growth. The Swedish textile recycler said the impact on working capital and cash flow during the third quarter would likely persist through the end of the fiscal year. While production capacity has developed as forecasted and interest from brands remains strong, the company has seen fewer significant commitments from fiber producers to buy its product than it had anticipated.
Still, the Swedish company said its outlook for future Circulose sales is “strong.” Earlier this month, Renewcell announced the expansion of the Circulose Supplier Network it launched in July. The community of yarn and textile partners and denim mills has grown its membership to 116 supply chain stakeholders across 15 countries.
