Jonathan Anderson’s spring collection pulsed with chic sophistication, demonstrating range and daring — those twin engines of exciting fashion.
Floppy sunhats in black leather added an air of drama and subversion to his interpretation of nautical style, and the playful, yet disquieting films of Jacques Tati.
Draped leather midriffs had a similar effect on his prim, gently flaring dresses in pale linen or ticking stripes.
Awkward, and off-kilter touches remained: Outsize horn buttons on a breezy shirtdress; exaggerated, lobe-like lapels on a trench coat; or an asymmetric leather collar on a loose blouse, dangling a grommet from one point.
Backstage, Anderson remarked that when he viewed photos of his most complicated dresses and tops – compositions of undulating leather strips, seafaring rope and portholes – they had a cubist look a la Picasso.
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Yet some of his simpler, tailored looks were just as dazzling, including an asymmetric white tunic, and sexy sailor pants with the brass-buttoned flap on the back instead of the front — comfort be damned.
This strong effort should ramp up anticipation for Anderson’s debut women’s show at the creative helm at Loewe in Paris.