Consider Erdem Moralioglu the next London-based designer most likely to segue into filmmaking. His fall show practically had enough elements for a remake of “Sunset Boulevard,” including a jumbled set of Art Deco wall sconces, overturned pianos and chandeliers veiled in gauze. No slouch in the costume department, Moralioglu turned out a collection of demure suits and dresses with an Old Hollywood sheen.
Backstage, the designer said he imagined office girls tossing on a Twenties shift, a swishy Thirties number or a Forties suit and rushing off for film auditions, destined to fail more than succeed. “Faded grandeur,” he said.
While some of his neck-to-ankle dresses were lovely — enlivened with gleaming velvet and silvery fil coupé, their modesty tempered with panels of mesh or point d’esprit — the collection often felt overtly historical. Pared-down outfits — as in a cream sweater with a long skirt swishing with long cream fringe and gold tinsel — were more impactful.
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Moralioglu added more tailoring this time, gussying up round-shouldered tweed pantsuits with ruffled peplums and floral embroideries crawling over the shoulders.
A blossoming showman with a flair for delicate dresses, the designer is among frontrunners to succeed Alber Elbaz at Lanvin, according to sources.
Reached by telephone after his show, Moralioglu had no comment.