With “Rhiannon” on the soundtrack and a flock of sweeping gypsy gowns on the runway, it was impossible not to draw a Stevie Nicks reference from Clare Waight Keller’s fall Chloé collection. She didn’t say so explicitly, but the abundance of Seventies-slanted undone flou accented with skinny neck scarves, scooped waistcoats over filmy maxis and flowerchild prints put the mood in the air. Keller captured the romantic, free-spirited side of the house in high def, with a vibrant, enriched collection.
“It’s about bringing out our inner femininity,” said Keller backstage. A strong woman with depth, yes, but the Chloé muse has a softer edge than someone like Nicks. Thus, the bewitching hippie attitude was more delicate than dark, though some of the best looks in the show came in rich velvet, such as a black spaghetti-strap gown with a low-plunging scalloped neckline and a printed strapless blue-velvet dress gathered into pleats around the bust. Gorgeous, gentlemanly officer’s coats with elegant lines and flared trousers provided the tailored English tomboy contrast to the boho.
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Such tension is essential to Keller’s hand, but this season seemed to tip in favor of the luxe hippie. She indulged bohemian chicks with depth of color and opulent treatments, such as a patchwork cape and skirt that had the cheery charm of a homespun quilt and fille coupé velvets overprinted with florals. Then there were the shearlings: Reversible and floor-length — the long coat has gone viral this season — they were coats to pine (and save) for.