The Akris press notes read like a fortune cookie. “The way develops while we are walking it — Albert Kriemler,” said the text on a gray note card in the packet, which elaborated with small profundities, such as: “The jacket is the essence of Akris and the departure of every collection” and “A dash of yellow, the color of luck and wisdom.”
The collection had an attitude of active Zen, placid in its stoney palette of gray, white and black with a big emphasis on sport, a wise category for Kriemler to approach in this age of ath-leisure. He did so with an urban edge, polished to the apex of luxury in Akris cashmere, mink, silk, alpaca and double-face everything. It moved the house’s purist, classic aesthetic forward.
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The show opened with a double-face fleece blazer over a jersey hoodie and apron dress that had a panel folded around the bottom and left open in the back, a recurring motif. Puffer quilting took a streamlined form in a cashmere zip-up jacket and a leather dress that was fitted up top with an angular apron folded skirt. Styled monochromatically with leather leggings and choppy gray bob wigs, the more layered, sculpted looks even had a whiff of Rick Owens to them. Kriemler had the wisdom to limit yellow to an accent, used sparingly on bags and a single leather tunic. Just enough for luck.