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Details at Dior RTW Fall 2020
Image Credit: Aitor Rosas Sune/WWD Scarves were de rigueur in the hair of most models at Dior. “It’s a very cool, chic look,” said Guido Palau, who explained it made him think of women in the Sixties but also of Axel Rose. “A cool biker chick. And it gives a lot of personality to the girls — it changes their faces.” At Dior, the scarves were worn with natural, textured hair, “which gives a coolness and an ease,” said Palau, who was working with Redken products. He blew-dry tresses and used an iron. Palau applied Frizz Dismiss to zap fly-aways and give a sheen. — Jennifer Weil
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Backstage at Mugler RTW Fall 2020
Image Credit: Delphine Achard/WWD Backstage at Mugler RTW Fall 2020
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Backstage at Mugler RTW Fall 2020
Image Credit: Delphine Achard/WWD “These girls are so hot. They are so in demand. They are extremely sexy, and I feel like it always calls for nice gelled, shiny, slick, greasy hair, because it adds a sense of badass-ness,” said Jawara Wauchope. “Last season, we did answer to that in one way, and this time we are doing a little bit of a simpler season, where you can literally part your hair in the middle, just gel it down and leave your texture out. It looks a little bit like school-ish hair, and then it gets [to be] a bit real gritty hair. We’re putting in a product and just leaving it, making it look like the hair is dirty and bad.” Wauchoup on some models added wigs in a hair color differing from their own and gave long coifs to some models with otherwise short natural hair. Yet another style featured models’ tresses curving around their ear. “The hair is swiped all the way over to the side with so much gel,” he said. Wachope used Schwarzkopf’s Got2B gel and Dyson hair tools. — Jennifer Weil
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Backstage at Rochas RTW Fall 2020
Image Credit: Delphine Achard/WWD Anthony Turner said the hair was “a kind of nod to the Nineties — Helmut Lang.” He said Rochas artistic director Alessandro Dell’Acqua wanted the models to feel empowered, strong and confident. “There is not a lot of romanticism in the hair at all really,” said Turner. “It’s very strict, serious, with a very strong side part, combed over using a wide-tooth comb. You get the comb marks, so it feels very much like these girls mean business. But the back is tucked behind the ears and then it’s down — so we’re not taking it away because we still want to feel the woman in there. We still want to feel like there is femininity. It’s not about small heads, making girls look like boys.” Turner used L’Oréal Professionnel’s Tecni.Art Pli thermo-modeling spray. – Jennifer Weil
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Backstage at Paco Rabanne RTW Fall 2020
Image Credit: Delphine Achard/WWD “The show is a little bit mystical and in a way contemporary portraiture. It’s like radical Paco Rabanne futuristic equals a collision of past and future in a contemporary way,” said Pat McGrath, who explained the collection included metal masks and chain mail with a medieval look. “So there’s a nod to the future and a nod to the present.” McGrath added that Paco Rabanne’s artistic director Julien Dossena wanted models’ faces to be “beautiful, gorgeous [with] lightly flushed skin and a little tone around the eye. But it is all about a fresh face.” She used her eponymous brand’s products, including Skin Fetish Sublime Perfection Foundation, The Foundation System and The Concealer System, Mother Ship I palette and FetishEyes mascara in extreme black. — Jennifer Weil
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Backstage at Off-White RTW Fall 2020
Image Credit: Kuba Dabrowski/WWD Jawara Wauchope said he looked at some old Helmut Lang runway photos, in which models wore straight hair. Off-White artistic director Virgil Abloh said he wanted models in his show to look like they take care of themselves well and that their hair seems “so healthy that you just want to jump into it. I took that, and decided to do really bone-straight hair with flat ironing,” Wauchope said. He used Dyson blow dryers. “We’re making sure that hair’s really shiny and straight at the bottom, so it almost looks otherworldly,” he said. For models with 4c textured hair, Wauchope used the flat-twisting technique and crafted tresses into chignons. — Jennifer Weil
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Backstage at Isabel Marant RTW Fall 2020
Image Credit: Delphine Achard/WWD “The look of the show today is quite natural,” said Damien Boissinot. He parted models’ hair in the middle and crafted low ponytails. “On some curly, frizzy hair we slicked [it down]. That is quite sleek, tight and polished,” said Boissinot. — Jennifer Weil
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Backstage at Yohji Yamamoto RTW Fall 2020
Image Credit: Delphine Achard/WWD Backstage at Yohji Yamamoto RTW Fall 2020
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Backstage at Haider Ackermann RTW Fall 2020
Image Credit: Vanni Bassetti/WWD “Brancusi was the original reference point that Haider gave me,” said the hairstylist Duffy. “There’s always a face, a head, the idea of a form, a silhouette of the extension of the body. With Brancusi’s sculptures for me there is always a form that is then attached to another form. It’s never fluid — it’s quite an awkward, jolting transition. They are very pure shapes, very definite graphic lines, which I think are resembled in the clothes. So for the head, what I wanted to do was give you this idea of the shape, the form that leads into another form that maybe jolts slightly, but has a beauty, a purity, a fluidity [although] there is a disconnect with them slightly. We’re working with balloons, papier-mâché and a lot of hairspray. We’re creating these forms on the head. It’s an extension of the silhouette – it’s stretching, elongating. The hairlines are very, very short. There are a couple of blondes, a couple of whites, mainly blacks. We ended with a small dome. It was an egg, with an edge cut off. Everything is quite aggressive, but perfect, pure and simple.” — Jennifer Weil
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Backstage at Elie Saab RTW Fall 2020
Ramona Eschbach, using L’Oréal Paris products, said for the collection there were numerous types of textures and concepts and that for the hair, Issey Miyake artistic director Satoshi Kondo “wanted something that was simple, minimal and wouldn’t take away from the clothes. This season I was inspired by one of the sections of clothes [that] was dyed actually with dirt, kind of mud [with a] dusty type of feeling. I wanted the hair to be different than last season, so we kept it dry. I blow-dried it with a salt-water spray to keep it [with] a dry, fluffy texture — nothing too heavy, slick or shiny — and just pulling the hair away from the face to not compete with the clothes. For the girls that have long hair, it’s pulled back in a low ponytail, then I fish-tail braided it.” — Jennifer Weil
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Backstage at Thom Browne RTW Fall 2020
Eugene Soulieman had in mind the Thom Browne fashion show while creating the hair look: blacked bobbed wigs partially covered with black latex. He explained there was “duality, couples going on together, wearing an identical outfit, bags on either side of them. I wanted them to look the same, so they were connected, a species.…They’re a team. They’re all going onto Noah’s Arc to a brighter future. I wanted them to almost be mirror images of one another, so we did wigs that are mirror images. They’re cut the same, but cut on different sides. They match. It’s like looking at yourself in the mirror, a reflection of yourself or your persona. There’s a duality in the wigs, too. We’ve combined silicone to which we added pigments in the same color, and they’re painted. So there’s this really almost Space-Age, kind of illustrative abstract gentleman’s haircut vibe going on. Everything’s really loaded [there], and then there’s natural hair in the back.” — Jennifer Weil
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Backstage at Givenchy RTW fall 2020
Image Credit: Delphine Achard/WWD Paul Hanlon defined the hairstyle he fashioned for Givenchy as “very considered. It’s quite blown out, but at the same time we didn’t want the hair to be glamorous and big.” The ponytails he created didn’t look simply thrown together. Hanlon blow-dried models’ hair and then pulled it back. For those with thinner hair, extensions the same length as their natural tresses were added. Of the coif’s creation overall, he explained they began by parting the hair and spritzing it with spray. “Once we’ve done that, we break it by pushing [hair] the other way, so you get a little volume in it,” he said. “It’s almost like the surface is more 3-D. It’s very subtle, the detail. It is a low ponytail, with an elastic. We just brushed [hair] with a bit of serum on the end. It’s very simple.” — Jennifer Weil
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Backstage at Giambattista Valli RTW Fall 2020
Paul Hanlon sought to juxtapose the sweetness of the bows and veils as well as the heavily charged clothes being worn by models at the Giambattista Valli show with the hairstyle’s toughness. As such, he gave models’ hair a wet look, using L’Oréal Paris Studio Line gel and a touch of oil. Hanlon combed tresses back — with the comb marks remaining apparent — into an imperfect bun. Right before models went out on the runway, a bit of gel was to be wiped on their hair. Some were left with natural bobs. “It’s very simple,” said Hanlon. — Jennifer Weil
