LAS VEGAS — WWDMAGIC offered feminine and luxe looks inspired by bohemian moods and the Victorian era during Tuesday’s kickoff here.
Though the bohemian trend has dominated the women’s clothing market for several seasons, retailers buffeted by economic challenges and the impact of hurricanes continued to favor the beading, ruffles and looser fits typifying the style.
“I like that look, almost that kind of gypsy look,” said Joann Moorer, owner of women’s boutique Serene Living in Carefree, Ariz., who ordered white and ivory cotton tops with tunic sleeves and sheer back insets, among other items, from vendors such as Body Language.
Many designers recast bohemian styles into Victorian looks, with fitted bodices, high collars and romantic fabrics including lace, silk charmeuse and chiffon.
Even Project Alabama, showing its lower-priced line at WWDMAGIC for the first time in the new juried pavilion called Pedestal in the contemporary section, airbrushed stencils of roses on peach cotton T-shirts trimmed with white lace bibs.
Another newcomer was Badgley Mischka, the New York-based design label that displayed its diffusion dress line carrying wholesale prices that cost less than half of its couture offerings. “We’re looking for some great new stores that we haven’t penetrated on the West Coast,” said Mitchell Hops, Badgley Mischka’s president and chief executive officer, explaining the company’s decision to come to here.
As the February run of WWDMAGIC traditionally focuses on the fall season, outerwear companies such as Krio spruced up Persian lamb, feathered mink and fox with embossed leather trim and metallic nylon. The trade show “helps reach the buyer who wears fur for fun,” said Christina Nacos, head designer for Krio.
The House of Deréon, the clothing label created by Beyoncé Knowles and her mother, Tina, unveiled its inaugural fur collection for this fall. The expansion into the fur category is part of the New York-based company’s efforts to offer more sophisticated fashion and reach better department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue. “We’re stepping up our game for fall,” said Dorian Thompson, sales manager for The House of Deréon, adding that opening retail prices increased to $110 from $92 to reflect the use of luxurious fabrics such as silk jersey and antique lace.
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Tina Knowles, who planned to spend Tuesday in the booth showing buyers and journalists the fall collection, said she aimed for a romantic feeling mixed with street attitude. For instance, a hammered silk baseball jacket designed with a bubble bottom and puffy sleeves integrated, in her words, “the catwalk with the sidewalk.”
Some retailers had more than the catwalk on their minds. Marsha Guillory, owner of Marsha G’s Boutique in Orange, Tex., shopped to replenish her store after closing it for three months last year after the devastation from Hurricane Rita. “I lost my whole inventory,” Guillory said.
Danny Golshan, ceo of Los Angeles-based Donna Vinci, said 80 percent of his customers are in the southern U.S. “Because of the hurricanes, we lost quite a few good accounts,” Golshan said. “The [high] gas prices aren’t helping, either.”
Michael Aguirre, vice president of design merchandise for Los Angeles’ Hot Kiss Inc., said the junior company was reassessing its pricing strategy in the face of a tough economy. “We’re taking a good, hard look at what we’re offering and trying to keep [retail] prices at a comfortable level; no more, on average, than $49,” Aguirre said.
Roberta Kahn, owner of Gartner’s Department Store in Hancock, Mich., said she needed to play it safe with her fashion picks because the economy is weak in northern Michigan. “We’re not real trendy,” Kahn said, noting that purchases included summer basics such as capris and sleeveless tops.
Still, Chinese Laundry said it can deliver on trend at affordable prices. As such, its booth was booming. “We’re off to a good start. People are writing [orders] right away,” said Martin Rakovitch, president of Chinese Laundry’s handbag division, adding that top sellers ranged between $20 and $30 at wholesale.
Nevertheless, color is an antidote to a somber mood, as exhibited in the orange and emerald green tie-dyed bikinis from Sabree.
Dresses also sold well. Sweetees designer Melody Kulp said dresses were popular “because they make people feel special, cute, feminine and fresh.” Geoffrey Blitz, representative for New York’s Donna Morgan, said that, so far this year, he opened 100 accounts because of the popularity of dresses for spring and summer.
Of course, denim continued its reign. Christopher Dalida, buyer for Zotcis Attire in Manhattan, Kan., said he was searching for new jeans lines, particularly embellished and distressed ones. “Girls love the back-pocket rhinestone stuff,” he said.
— With contributions from Martine Bury