The recent outpouring of dermatologist-driven, high-tech skin care brands will kick into another gear with the U.S. debut of a product range created in cooperation with Ivo Pitanguy, one of the most famous plastic surgeons in the world.
The line is called Previous and bears the name of Beauty by Clinica Ivo Pitanguy, from the Rio de Janeiro-based clinic founded in 1963. The products will be launched in October in limited distribution at Bergdorf Goodman as well as select Neiman Marcus stores.
The skin care collection is designed to be used first as a preventive measure for those hoping to delay the need for plastic surgery. However, if patients do have surgery, the line also has been designed to help them recover. Created six years ago, the products were first used in the clinic by Pitanguy’s patients.
The antiaging line features six skin care items for the face including a Rebalancing Formula, Face Lifting Formula, Instant Lifting Cure, Lifting Serum, Eye Contour Lifting Gel and Neck Lifting Formula. The skin care assortment ranges from $155 for a 0.48-oz. Eye Contour Lifting Gel to $290 for a 1.7-oz. Instant Lifting Cure. Earlier this year, the line was launched in a handpicked number of perfumeries and boutiques in Switzerland, France and Italy. By the end of next year, the clinic plans to introduce a new body assortment as well as distribute the current line in Belgium, Russia, Spain, Germany, the Middle East and Canada. Proceeds from the U.S. sales will be used by the clinic in conjunction with a local hospital in Rio to help underprivileged children.
The line was originally developed under the supervision of Pitanguy and his daughter Gisela, director of Clinica and a psychotherapist, along with a team of some eight staff specialists including nutritionists, pharmacists, aestheticians, dermatologists and biochemists.
“Our philosophy is to prevent damage by treating the skin now before surgery, or possibly after surgery before the surgery’s benefits are lost,” said Gisela Pitanguy. “We do this in the antiaging line by using very effective active peptides. ”
Long used in Indian, Asian and African traditional medicine for its healing properties, the centella asiatica plant extract is a key ingredient in the line, designed to reduce inflammation of the skin as well as boost cell activity and reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Select products in the line also contain one of four peptides such as tripeptide and hexapeptide, which are said to lift and firm the skin. The clinic found a new way of creating and developing these peptides in order to increase effectiveness, according to Emmanuel Saujet, chief executive officer and vice chairman of International Cosmetics & Perfumes Inc., which serves as Previous’ worldwide licensee.
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As the skin gets repaired, according to the company, its tone improves and it becomes smoother, while increasing elasticity and easing fine lines and wrinkles.
Although company executives would not comment, industry sources estimate that Previous will generate $3.5 million in first-year U.S. retail sales with about $10 million retail sales worldwide, not including the U.S.
“Patients asked for creams that had the same quality of the surgery of the Clinica,” said company founder Ivo Pitanguy, who wrote “Aesthetic Plastic Surgery of the Head and Body.” “The creams were initially developed for use by patients only and offered in the clinic’s area where people go for noninvasive procedures. Our patients trusted the clinic and told us for the past 20 years that they wanted to use something we created, knowing the clinic would be directly responsible for the products’ quality — whether it was to postpone or prepare for surgery.”
Despite giving his stamp of approval, Pitanguy admitted to being “fully hesitant” about using his name on the products, so he compromised by using his clinic’s name.
“The products are under my clinic’s name and made inside my clinic, and my name is not advertised or suggested in any products,” said Pitanguy, who started working as a surgeon about 50 years ago. “I made my name through my surgery, teaching and articles.”
Pitanguy believes the role surgeons should play is educating consumers on how to take care of their skin, whether for pre- or post-operative measures.
“Today there are more ancillary procedures to plastic surgery that can make the overall treatment more beneficial,” said Pitanguy, who advises against surgery when not absolutely necessary. “It is important for people to have access to what I call cosmetic-dermatological treatments that are noninvasive. If these can achieve your goals of beautification and you can avoid surgery, you should.”
Saujet noted, “The clinic is one of first clinics worldwide to have a health and beauty center where women can go for plastic surgery and get a psychological evaluation to see whether or not they really need surgery. This line is a legacy of his [Pitanguy’s] lifetime work.”
Ed Burstell, senior vice president and general merchandise manager of beauty, footwear and accessories at Bergdorf Goodman, sees this as a new and improved direction in skin care, especially due to the growing number of plastic surgery procedures.
“There isn’t anyone out there with a bigger reputation, who’s known worldwide for the best plastic surgery and aesthetic treatments, ” said Burstell. “The fact they have set up a multidisciplinary clinic calls to mind someone who looks at the entire package. It’s a different way of looking at skin care.”