For the second season, Italian Vogue is supporting emerging designers with a fashion show called “Spotlight on New Styles.” Based on their talent, technical skills and pulse of the market, Vogue selected four emerging names to divulge their fashion message on Feb. 23. (Like WWD, Vogue is part of Condé Nast Publications.) Here, WWD takes a look at who they are.
For the second season, Italian Vogue is supporting emerging designers with a fashion show called “Spotlight on New Styles.” Based on their talent, technical skills and pulse of the market, Vogue selected four emerging names to divulge their fashion message on Feb. 23. (Like WWD, Vogue is part of Condé Nast Publications.) Here, WWD takes a look at who they are.
Derercuny
Founded: 1996
Designer: Mina Lee
Background: Lee, a Korean designer, studied at the Fashion Design School in Seoul then moved to Milan, where she attended the Istituto Europeo di Design and Domus Academy. Between 1998 and 2003, she apprenticed chez Fiorucci, Escada and Luisa Beccaria.
Defining traits: Lee loves contrasting elements like a nubby cotton coat over a printed silk georgette dress with a vintage feel. “I design for a romantic woman with a strong personality,” she said.
Fall favorite: A wool jersey dress cinched above the breast that flares into a cocoon shape worn with a fur-trimmed bolero.
Muse: Sofia Coppola
Where to buy: Neiman Marcus in New York; Selfridges in London; Beams in Tokyo.
Wholesale range: Average price is $300.
Grimaldi Giardina
Founded: 1998
Designers: Antonio Grimaldi and Sylvio Giardina
Background: The pair met while working for Roman couturier Raniero Gattinoni. Pushed by their clients’ requests, they decided to branch out on their own. Their big break came in 2003 when they showed in Paris during couture week. This is their first season designing ready-to-wear.
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Defining traits: Femininity to the nth power. “We like to exalt and respect a woman’s body through a sense of lightness and proportions that focus on the neckline and waistline,” said Giardina.
Fall favorite: A silk organdy blouse-cum-smock with velvet and satin borders. “It’s a contemporary hybrid,” said Giardina.
Muse: For this collection, Twiggy.
Where to buy: “We’ve always sold couture through our atelier, so hopefully the rtw will earn us some new sales points,” Giardina said.
Wholesale range: From $238 for a skirt and blouse to $951 for an evening dress.
MCM
Founded: In 1976 in Munich. The brand is being repositioned.
Designer: Michael Michalsky was named creative director in May.
Background: Michalsky has a degree in fashion management from the London College of Fashion. The designer also worked at Adidas, where he collaborated with Yohji Yamamoto and Stella McCartney on the Y-3 line.
Defining traits: “My clothes and accessories are meant for cosmopolitan people with modern, mobile and flexible lifestyles,” said Michalsky. Clothes are simple and accessories are never overpowering.
Fall favorite: A cape over slim leather pants, pixie boots and a doctor bag.
Muse: “My mother and my two closest girlfriends.”
Where to buy: Pool in Munich and a freestanding store that’s slated to open in early May.
Wholesale range: $43 for a T-shirt to $1,570 for a washed lambskin trenchcoat.
Blue Area
Founded: 1996
Designer: Enrico Colombo
Background: Yarns are in his blood, since his parents own a mill. Colombo worked with Alberto Aspesi and consulted for various fashion brands before going solo.
Defining traits: Anything but a classical beige V-neck. Colombo weaves his passion for contemporary art and jazz into his sweaters via hand-printed design in seven steps. Some fall styles feature sterling silver and mother-of-pearl applications.
Fall favorite: The abstract monochromatic prints inspired by French artist Yves Klein.
Where to buy: Biffi and Gió Moretti in Milan; Maria Luisa in Paris.
Wholesale range: $143-$238.