DALLAS — While the nation waited to see who would be the next U.S. president, local custom fashion designer Michael Faircloth waited for a phone call.
As he sketched and dreamed of inaugural dresses, Faircloth, a longtime friend and personal designer for future First Lady Laura Bush, knew that the outcome of the election could change his life.
“For 36 days I waited, hoped and dreamed of the day when I could start sewing,” Faircloth told WWD.
“Then Mrs. Bush called the day after the Supreme Court’s ruling, and we began to discuss what she would wear for the inauguration. I have to say that this is truly the chance of a lifetime and something I’m so terribly proud of — after all, the inaugural gown goes into the Smithsonian.”
Faircloth, now on the phone almost daily with Laura Bush or her personal secretary to edit and refine the streamlined evening dresses and classic suits that are taking shape in his atelier at the Lilly Dodson women’s designer store here, is also suddenly fielding calls and media inquiries from around the world.
He’s not accustomed to all the attention but realizes that he’d better get used to it.
Faircloth will attend the inauguration and already is mapping a seasonal calendar for Bush’s future wardrobe needs. It’s a safe bet that he’ll be spending more than a little time at the White House.
For Bush’s inaugural wardrobe, Faircloth has designed discreet but stylish suits with slim sleeves, tapered skirts that stop at mid-knee and high-button jackets that don’t require blouses. For the inaugural galas, he’s designed three body-conscious long-sleeve columns embellished with beads and lace.
“Every time we have a discussion, we make another change to the dresses — but we’re getting there,” laughed Faircloth.
For the record, Laura Bush wears a size 8 — or something quite close.
“Everything is custom-fitted and handmade, but she’s a very beautiful size,” he offered.
“I’ve spent an incredible amount of time researching what other First Ladies wore to inaugurals, and we’re going with some unexpected colors.”
Bush loves blue, green, winter white and red and eschews patterns in favor of rich solids.
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“With Laura, form follows function,” explained Faircloth. “She’s not fond of pleated or full skirts. Just beautifully made clothes with quiet lines — nothing high contrast or too dramatic such as peak lapels or really broad shoulders. And she doesn’t like an overabundance of accessories. Just something luxe but simple.”
Faircloth and Bush share similar personalities: Both are quiet but plain spoken, polite but honest and can’t be bothered with short-term trends.
Bush’s low-key style isn’t limited to apparel. She has a passion for reading and holds a master’s degree in library science from the University of Texas at Austin. Until now, Hillary Clinton was the only First Lady with an advanced degree.
Literacy and early-childhood education are a couple of Bush’s favorite causes.
“I’m not a flamboyant or trendy person and neither is Laura. She appreciates discretion and I appreciate her straightforward style. And she’s very honest in the fitting room.”
Have Faircloth and Bush committed any fashion faux pas?
“Over the past few years, we’ve made some mistakes but she’s been very polite about it. She’ll say something like, ‘I really enjoyed this but maybe it’s not just right for me.”‘
Faircloth recalled a mint green suit that he made for Bush, and both agreed she shouldn’t wear the color again.
“She favors fabrics that are supple and lightweight, after all it’s hot so much of the time in Texas. I’m looking forward to designing a seasonal wardrobe for Laura. In Washington, she’ll have to deal with four distinct seasons.”
For Bush’s first inaugural wardrobe in 1994, Faircloth designed a double-breasted cranberry wool suit trimmed in brown cotton velvet topped by a matching full-length coat.
For the formal gala, Faircloth outfitted Bush in a long iridescent teal velvet dress, hand-embroidered with gold and silver thread and crystals.
In 1998 for her husband’s second inauguration as Texas governor, Bush wore Faircloth’s lavender mohair and wool suit with a jeweled neckline and self-fringe trim.
For the inaugural ball, she wore a cranberry and caramel French lace top reembroidered with mohair yarn and hand-beaded with crystals and a matching cranberry silk panne velvet skirt with a beaded hip band.
Faircloth often accents Bush’s evening gowns with jeweled or banded belts or sashes to accent her small waistline.
While First Lady of Texas, Bush requested that Faircloth try to use fibers that were indigenous to the state when sewing her clothes, such as wool, mohair or cotton.
While a student at the University of Texas in Denton, not far from Dallas, Faircloth worked at Neiman Marcus as a sales associate where he spent any spare time poring over the workmanship of designers, especially Valentino and James Galanos.
“Galanos made personal appearances at Neiman’s, and I had the chance to go to dinner with him. He’ll always be my favorite designer. I used to examine his clothes inside out. The tailoring is exquisite, truly unbelievable.”
Faircloth now employees five people in his Dallas studio — but that’s about to change.
“We’ll be double the size of the studio in a very short time,” he said. “And I’m getting ready to design a line of fur coats, mostly sable, for next fall. I’m starting with 15 pieces. I plan to do other accessories in the near future but the details aren’t final.”
Faircloth first met Laura Bush in 1993 just prior to her husband and President-elect George W. Bush becoming governor of Texas.
The two were introduced by one of Faircloth’s clients, and they immediately forged a sympatico bond.
“While Laura was First Lady of Texas, I designed two seasonal collections per year for her, which we would regularly punctuate with special items. At the White House, we’ll be following a much more rigid schedule with all the special events.”
Faircloth designs nearly all of Bush’s daytime and social occasion clothes, though she buys off the rack for more casual affairs and for knocking around the family’s ranch in south Texas.
Faircloth, who is 41, has spent the last 16 years designing apparel for some of the richest women in the Southwest and Latin America.
His designs are available exclusively at Lilly Dodson, where he has a studio and production room.
Among his clients are Sara Perot, wife of Ross Perot Jr.; Nancy Brinker and Ramona Bass, wife of philanthropist Lee Bass.
He also designs the complete wardrobes for several wealthy Mexican and South American socialites who routinely fly into Dallas for fittings, thinking nothing of dropping more than $10,000 apiece for one of his elaborately beaded or embroidered dresses or half that for one of his impeccably tailored suits.
Though fashion is his passion, Faircloth also loves to scout Europe, especially England and Italy, for antiques with his companion of 13 years, who is a reading specialist for a local school district.
“I love to cook and entertain, though I don’t have the time to cook as much as I’d like. You can tell I’m Texan by virtue of my favorite food: chicken fried steak.”
Faircloth, who grew up in the tiny central Texas town of Yoakum, planned to be a lawyer but was discouraged by his mother, who felt that her son needed a more creatively gratifying career.
“My mother, who was dying of cancer at the time, helped me to see that I was much too creative to limit myself to being a lawyer, even though I think I would have been a great attorney. Now, I get the chance everyday to make women beautiful and to smile.”
Faircloth said his typically calm demeanor gave way to a case of nerves upon hearing that George W. Bush would be the next president.
“It dawned on me that I was going to be designing clothes for the next First Lady of the United States,” recalled Faircloth.
“I was elated but so nervous when she called me and said, ‘Let’s get together to discuss dresses.”‘
But when Bush appeared at Faircloth’s studio soon afterward, the designer said his jitters evaporated.
“She came in and immediately hugged me. We sat down and had coffee and I then realized that she was the same beautiful Laura Bush that I had always known. I knew that wasn’t about to change.”