MILAN — Tired of being asked to name up-and-coming talents, Franca Sozzani, editor in chief of Italian Vogue, has taken action with Who Is On Next, a fashion show supported by Alta Roma to promote fresh faces.
Out of the 300 candidates, four designers were selected as finalists — Albino D’Amato, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi of the label 6267 and Carlo Alberto Pregnolato — who secured the chance to show their spring wares on Sept. 28 at Milan’s fairgrounds.
Two days later, during a fund-raising dinner hosted by Sozzani and Anna Wintour, editor in chief of Vogue, one will receive the scepter of best designer.
With fashion tastes that run from couture accoutrements and Old World glamour to contemporary silhouettes and curious fabric combinations, the new designers all hope to fill a page in the saturated fashion book. And they already have caught the eyes of top international retailers.
WWD takes a look at who they are and what they do.
Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi
Label: 6267
Ages: Both are 33.
Background: The two, who are now based in Mantua, Italy, met during one of the many fashion consultancies they still are committed to, though clients’ names are not revealed.
Aquilano, who was born near Foggia, Italy, frequented the Accademia del Costume in Rome and later cut his teeth in Roman ateliers, while Bologna, Italy-born Rimondi graduated from an artistic high school and then took a pattern-cutting course. He claims he has a more ready-to-wear approach. The duo launched 6267 — the name comes from the number that Rimoldi was assigned as a kid at summer camp — last year. “We like the idea that it’s a number because it’s original and resolves many language issues,” said Rimondi.
Design philosophy: Wearable clothes that steer clear of wallflower types. “There are so many clothes out there, but so many are over the top,” said Rimondi. “Our focus is structure and details.”
Spring highlights: A mix of Far Eastern cultures with Forties’ big-screen glamour. Elongated silhouettes are crafted with linen and mohair blends, crunchy silks, soft organdy and silk duchesse with “matadors” and origami embellishments. Details include appliquéd hems, multiple stitches and shawl collars.
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Favorite clothing item: The jacket.
Least favorite: None
Inspirational designers: In their own way, they’re all good.
Wholesale prices: From $182 for skirts to $849 for jackets.
Hobbies: Gardening for Rimondi; cooking for Aquilano.
Albino D’Amato
Label: Albino
Age: 31
Background: As a kid, Albino D’Amato would draw personalized renditions of Japanese cartoons and re-dress the characters.
Born in Rome, D’Amato studied architecture in college and then received a degree in design and marketing at the Ecole de la Chambre Syndacale de la Couture in Paris. He garnered experience working for designers such as Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Dolce & Gabbana and Anna Molinari. Financially backed by interior designer Gianfranco Fenizia, he went solo in 2004.
Design philosophy: A modern and deconstructed rendition of couture’s most elaborate sartorial tradition. “Fabrics are a starting point because they are a vehicle to reinterpret any look,” said D’Amato.
His source of inspiration is Fifties elegance exemplified by Jean Patou and Givenchy.
Spring highlights: Construction is primary for D’Amato, who likes to obtain a soft-cum-rigid look via unusual fabric mixes such as cotton canvas and taffeta for shapely yet uncontrived bustier dresses.
Favorite clothing item: Skirts and jackets.
Least favorite: Pants
Inspirational designers: John Galliano in the Nineties, Valentino, Nicolas Ghesquière and Alber Elbaz.
Wholesale prices: Dresses range from $242 to $440, while coats and jackets average at $363.
Hobbies: Race cars, tennis and good food.
Carlo Alberto Pregnolato
Label: Carlo Alberto
Age: 38
Background: With a degree in architecture under his belt, Pregnolato studied industrial design at Les Ateliers in Paris and later became a fashion stylist for D-La Repubblica, a trendy Italian weekly magazine. Most recently, though, he reverted to his family roots: footwear, launching his own collection last year.
Design philosophy: Essential shapes that let the amazing handiwork shine through. Feminine and trendy shoes that are handcrafted via 200 steps. Pregnolato insists on using top-quality hides, namely suede, kid and a zoo of reptiles.
Spring highlights: “My priority is superlight shoes, where the cutting and stitching is reduced drastically,” said Pregnolato. In the show, there will be lots of column heels, butterfly decorations and sexy straps under pretty Lolita-esque lingerie by designer Jean Yu, who has a store in SoHo in New York.
Inspirational designers: Gianni Versace, Alexander McQueen and Donna Karan.
Wholesale prices: A boot with a lizard platform goes for $242 and suede pumps for $119.
Hobbies: It used to be designing shoes.