LOS ANGELES — The contemporary label Sanctuary is breaking out from the comfort zone.
Starting with only three styles, the eight-year-old bottoms-driven resource has grown into a $15 million company. The line is sold in 600 stores from Beige in Los Angeles and M. Frederic in Agoura Hills, Calif., to Intermix in New York. It is worn by celebrities such as Courteney Cox, Calista Flockhart and Carmen Electra.
Now the North Hollywood, Calif.-based company is heightening the luxe factor with the launch of S Label, a 25-piece concept collection, using Japanese denim, Italian herringbone twills, vintage-inspired corduroy and higher-end washes. Sanctuary is also heating up the marketing machine for its original Black Label line with its first magazine campaign styled by Matt Damhave, a onetime partner in Imitation of Christ. Apart from the label’s participation in fashion week here, it has maintained a lower profile than many of its press-hungry rivals, some of whom have gotten bigger faster.
“We’ve never had an image associated with us, because most of our energy has focused on the product,” said Debra Polanco, creative director of the line she owns with her husband, Ken. “We want to be that alternative pant line for that real and different earthy girl.”
For its spring Black Label line, known for its slouchy cargo-styled pants and denim trousers able to fit most bodies, the duo turned to photographer Patrik Andersson, who has worked for glossies, as well as Giorgio Armani and Calvin Klein, to shoot its look book and ad campaign that ran in Nylon in February through April.
Damhave’s role involved giving the visual presentation an edge, one that may continue into the design realm on a monthly basis, said Debra Polanco. Since his departure from IOC three years ago, Damhave has gone from designer to DJ and stylist, working with Alvin Valley, Catherine Fulmer and Y&Kei. His helping hand in Sanctuary also keeps him in the limelight for when he is ready to launch a new line, a venture that could happen by New York Fashion Week in September, he said.
Damhave said Sanctuary had “the nuts and bolts of the line worked out and were ready to start playing, and that’s what I’m good at.”
Related Articles
You May Also Like
The new fall campaign, shot in a Malibu mansion with a dark cherry wood backdrop, portrays a moody spirit. The models, sans jewelry with their hair down, pose almost defiantly in clothes inspired by an equestrian motif with fitted corduroy vests and jackets, velveteen jackets with panel pockets and wide-leg tweed canvas gauchos.
S Label, the new higher-end line, is projected to bring in $2 million in first-year wholesale volume. About 50 stores, including Dari in the Studio City community of Los Angeles, Scoop in New York and Tangerine in Chicago, have picked up the pieces for fall. The highly-constructed looks include a motorcycle jacket with crinkling and piping, cropped, fitted vests, herringbone cuffed shorts, flat front trousers and a longer denim blazer with elbow patches and copper hardware. A lotus print lines the pockets of the items and washes impart weathered to grainy effects. The line wholesales from $90 to $200 compared with Sanctuary’s average price tag of about $50 to $100.
But sticker shock doesn’t appear to be a problem for buyers.
“I love the fabrics — they’re soft and distressed and feel very rich,” said Tiffany Wendel, buyer at Dari, who picked up the line’s Bermuda-styled shorts and khakis.
Plans call for a knit line and men’s collection for spring 2006. Test silhouettes for men’s that were sold as private label pieces in specialty store accounts have performed well, said Debra Polanco.
While the company’s growth keeps the couple busy — wholesale volume is expected to reach $20 million this year — the Polancos said they try to give each other space.
They drive separately to work: he in a Porsche Carrera and she on a mint green Vespa. “We work together, but we also work apart,” said Ken Polanco, chief executive officer and president. He was smiling.