ENK International’s Fashion Coterie, which begins Sept. 19, is hoping two venues can be better than one.
Half the show will be at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center and the other half will be at the Show Piers, Coterie’s regular spot. Because of ongoing construction at Piers 88 and 90, the whole show just would not fit under one roof. So Elyse Kroll, president of ENK, said she is moving those exhibitors typically found on Pier 94 to the Javits Center. Also, there will be a new section, called Fresh Coterie at Javits (see separate story), along with the Sole Commerce footwear show.
“Fresh Coterie is a new crop of designers who haven’t showed at Coterie before,” Kroll said. “We will still have many more new people in with the other exhibitors, but for these people, we are giving them their own section to see what the reactions are from buyers.”
Back at the Piers, both Pier 94 and 92 will still be in full swing; vendors typically showing at 88 and 90 are moving over to Pier 94. Also new to the show, ENK has pitched a tent just outside Pier 94 where the new accessories show Clear will be. The show will showcase 18 designers from Europe, and was held at Gotham Hall during fashion week last February. Now, for convenience, ENK will move that show to the Piers. Kroll said Pier 92 will remain the same. She stressed that regular shuttle among venues will be available.
At the last Intermezzo show, which ENK also produces, buyers gave the thumbs-up to the Javits Center. Many of them said it was easier to navigate than the Piers and was a more efficient place to hold the show.
“Buyers and exhibitors both contacted me and said how they loved having it at Javits,” she said. “If I could get the whole show under one roof over there, I would certainly think about holding Coterie at the Javits Center. That’s already something we are reviewing.”
Contemporary designer Nanette Lepore, whose New York Fashion Week runway show just finished Tuesday evening, is now preparing for Coterie. She said that since she ships a new delivery each month, she coincides her runway show with what she will show at Coterie.
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“For many things, we have to modify the pieces that were on the runway, to make the samples more salable,” Lepore said. “Of course, this has to happen fast, so it always gets a little hectic over here.”
But, she said, the line will be there, ready to go. For spring, she will have suits with a new take — cropped jackets with high-waisted skirts and pants, trapeze-style raincoats, bra-friendly dresses, flowy tops and bubble skirts.
“The bubble skirts are a good example of what we have to do to these clothes before they go to Coterie,” she said. “Those have to be really toned down.”
She will also bring her line of Keds, which she has designed in partnership with the sneaker brand.
“We had them on the runway, so this is our big Keds launch,” she said.
The Nanette Lepore collection wholesales from $79 to $250.
At Seven For All Mankind, designers are working on a new brand, Emerald Rice, which will be launched in the spring. The new line is made for “true denim lovers.” The company plans to infuse this collection with denim innovations such as more extreme washes and finishes. While this line is set to be launched at Coterie, Seven For All Mankind creative director Tim Kaeding said the core collection will have plenty of new elements for spring.
“We are really aiming toward offering a full collection, rather than just jeans,” Kaeding said.
Bides three new washes on the jeans, Kaeding said he sees skinny legs still doing well in lighter and brighter colors.
“This year, skinny-leg jeans have been really important for back-to-school,” he said, “but I think that people are still just catching up to the trend, so it should be really big for spring.”
Seven For All Mankind will also have a high-waisted, wide-leg style.
“It sort of mimics a wide-leg trouser jean,” Kaeding said, “so we will have skinny and wide…both extremes.”
There will also be Sixties-inspired tunics and jumpsuits.
“Our sexy denim dress was our number-one selling item this year, so I really think dresses will be big news this spring,” he said. “I also expect our jumpsuits to get a good reaction — they are sort of a cool new twist on vintage.”
The Seven For All Mankind collection wholesales from $65 to $175.
Speaking of denim, Genetic Denim brand, based in New York, will show new fashion items at Coterie such as with the Seventies-inspired sailor pants, along with the basics — boot-cut, skinny-leg and leggings jeans.
“I realize that denim is a saturated market, and I know that people have been saying it’s been slowing down,” said Ali Fatourechi, creative director of Genetic Denim. “But really, for us, Intermezzo was strong and we continue to open new stores, so we aren’t feeling it. In a way, the saturation helps me to stay focused.”
The Genetic Denim line wholesales from $80 to $120.
Cristiana Proietti, owner and designer of Cris, a cashmere line, and Tiana, a T-shirt company, said preparing for Coterie was a top priority.
“We will have a separate booth for each line,” she explained, “so we are very busy getting samples ready.”
Tiana, which was launched earlier this year, is an upscale T-shirt line wholesaling from $46 to $58. For spring, the collection is clean-cut, but with raw edges. Proietti said Tiana, like Cris, grew from the idea of offering sexy T-shirts and cashmere.
“We are doing really well with longer lengths to work with skinny jeans, leggings or even on its own as a bathing suit cover-up or minidress,” she said. “Both lines come in a variety of color choices and work very well with so many different bottoms.”
David Meister, who typically spends his time in Los Angeles, was in New York last week putting the final touches on his spring line. The designer said that in the sportswear sector, he will have modern, clean safari jackets, khaki and white linen pants and skirts. Meister said he would show photo-realistic floral prints on gowns and structured day dresses with brightly colored prints and Swiss dots.
“In sportswear, the line is very clean and modern with a lot of play with proportions,” Meister explained. “Dresses are really colorful, with plenty of interesting textures in the fabrics.”
Meister’s line wholesales from $79 to $459 in sportswear and $119 to $299 in dresses.
Abbe Held, creative director of the Kooba handbag brand, said the bags will be cleaner than they have in the past. There will be a washed leather convertible tote that can be folded easily for travel. There’s also a variety of slouchy bags in indigo blue, sage, brown, cream, black and dusty pink.
“The colors are really crisp and fresh this season,” Held explained. “We really cleaned up this season. The bags are more tailored than they were, but we are still not a structured bag line.”
The Kooba line wholesales from $125 to $275.