NEW YORK — Although Paris-based designer Philippe Adec does not speak English, limiting his conversation with customers, his one-day visit to his new area in Bergdorf Goodman got the shoppers shopping.
Adec’s visit to Bergdorf’s earlier this month was his first in-store appearance in the U.S. to promote his signature contemporary-bridge collection, and a steady stream of customers came by. Sales for the day totaled about $40,000, said a store spokeswoman, with an array of jackets the strongest sellers. In all, 45 jackets were sold.
Adec’s collection is made and distributed in the U.S. under license by Morelle Products. Responding to questions for Adec, Aby Saltiel, president of Morelle, said the designer’s U.S. visit reflected his increasing curiosity about fashion and retail trends — and Adec and Saltiel have a full plate of plans for the collection.
The Adec offering for U.S. stores is being expanded, with a group for transition — which is not made for the European market — and evening looks for fall. Adec’s also been testing knitwear in the spring deliveries and will unveil a full knitwear group in spring 1995.
“This line is the same in France as it is here, but there are special needs of the American market, and he’s going to learn more about those,” said Saltiel. “We’re going to go to California so he can understand what is needed in the warmer climates. That does not really exist in France, and I would like Philippe to create more product for the places that are warm.”
While in California, Adec will visit his namesake store in Los Angeles, opened by Saltiel in 1993. Saltiel said he thinks the firm could increase its business in California by 30 percent once Adec understands how it differs from the rest of the country. There’s also talk about opening a store on Madison Avenue in 1995. Saltiel, who owns the license for the Equipment shirt line here, would like the shop to be near the Equipment store he opened in 1992 at 872 Madison Ave., at East 71st Street.
Saltiel has distributed the Adec line in the U.S. for 10 years. About five years ago, he obtained the license to produce the collection as well as distribute it domestically. This happened when the price of the line began to get prohibitive because of the dollar’s low value at that time.
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Annual wholesale volume for Morelle Products, which includes sales from Equipment, is $10 million, said Saltiel. Philippe Adec accounts for about 60 percent of that.
The Adec collection can be considered either contemporary or bridge, depending on the type of store it is in, he said, although most of the accounts that carry the line are specialty stores that do not departmentalize collections.
In Bergdorf’s, Adec is in a 700-square-foot area in the bridge/contemporary department on the fifth floor, along with collections like Anna Sui, Finis, Parallel, Item, Nanette Lepore and DKNY. Before his new area was set up, his collection was integrated into the general inventory.
Retail prices are $275 for a jacket, $150 for cuffed trousers and $95 for a skirt, all made from polyester microfiber; $198 for a long, printed silk skirt; $325 for a jacket and $135 for pants in a lightweight, textured wool group, and $225 for a jacket, $145 for wide-leg, drawstring pants and $120 for shorts in a linen and rayon group.
“I think this collection gives the customer great value and quality and a look,” said Ellin Saltzman, senior vice president and fashion director of Bergdorf’s. “He absolutely fills a need, and it can be worn by young women and older women.”
Stephen C. Elkin, Bergdorf’s chairman, and Joseph Boitano, senior vice president and general merchandise manager, stopped by the Adec area during his appearance to welcome the designer and noted that the collection had a strong performance history in the store. “It’s been doing very well for us,” said Boitano. “It’s well made and has a fashion focus at a good price. It’s also timely with its deliveries, in terms of customers’ needs.”
“He was surprised to see the following he has here,” said Saltiel of Adec. “And he is so impressed with the shop here and the fixtures that it has given him ideas to take back to France.”