PARIS — As the loud luxury of new maximalism dominated runways this season, contemporary labels presented restrained collections full of stealth-wealth signifiers.
Denim was dark-washed, structured and streamlined across the collections presented for fall, when the high street stores will offer up a studiously serious take on dressing.
The continuation of quiet luxury was particularly true at the SMCP family of brands. Sandro, Maje and Claudie Pierlot subtly shifted their style. As the conglomerate’s largest brand, Sandro led the pack.
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The flagship brand Sandro is strengthening its ties with the art world, holding its presentation in the newly revamped Musée Bourdelle. Giant sculptures served as a stunning backdrop, while a solid collection of upscaled basics were displayed at the forefront.
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Key pieces are a camel-colored update from last season’s bestselling scarf coat and plenty of sharp jackets including a cropped trench and boxy blazers. Pleated skirts and argyle sweater vests, all in neutral shades of navy, taupe and traditional black, completed the bourgeois wardrobe. Everything was clean-cut, form-fitting and streamlined.
The brand also hit on the season’s key office wear trend with masculine suiting. Sandro is upping its game with sourcing and production to be a real player in the “accessible luxury” field, said chief executive officer Isabelle Allouch. Its fall campaign, shot by Alessandro Furchino Capria, was displayed exhibit-style in the museum’s gallery.
Though the other SMCP brands Maje and Claudie Pierlot operate independently with their own creative directors, the overall aesthetic change could be felt at those labels, too.
Maje has shifted from club wear to chicer, more classic silhouettes done up in leather and vinyl. Creative director Judith Milgrom offered up her take on workwear in what she called the “office rebel.” The classic workwear suits with shorter hemlines, leopard print, layers and sequins offered a more edgy take for the younger Maje demographic.
There were also subtle ‘60s influences in sweet mary jane shoes and boxy silhouettes.
The brand is evolving its eveningwear selection, and plans to target the red carpet with cocktail wear. Full-skirted dresses with New Look-nipped waists were on offer in velvet styled over a pant lest they come across as purely retro, gowns with thigh-high slits were topped with a sparkly bow, and an accordion-pleated chiffon minidress had an hourglass silhouette. Puff bubble skirts were a fun touch and there were a couple of fluffy faux-fur options, kismet as the maximalist trend heats up.
Claudie Pierlot, another SMCP house, has also undergone a revamp for its coming collection under the direction of new studio creative head Maria Rosa Fragapane, who came on board in October after eight years at the buzzy Balzac brand. She tapped preppy codes with jaunty contrast-collared jackets and pin-striped pleated pants. Hiking boot hooks and laces were a fun twist on trainers.
A notable style to update the brand’s maritime roots was a traditional officer’s coat reinterpreted with a Mandarin collar. Strong outerwear is a touchstone of the brand, and it pulled in the faux fur trend with fuzzy collars and cuffs in leopard print on a very covetable chocolate coat.
As part of its strategic shift, the house will continue to be known under the Claudie Pierlot moniker, but will drop the surname in all future branding. The Claudie girl will emerge as a lighter, more playful version with the new direction.
Maison Kitsuné
While Maje referenced its collection as a trip from Paris to New York, Maison Kitsuné’s girl was on the Eurostar from Paris to London. The Japanese-influenced brand went “back to basics” in a collection designed by its studio team, after a few seasons of California surfer wear.
A return to the preppy roots brought back plaid schoolgirl-style skirts and blazers and lots of more streamlined collegiate looks.
Maison Kitsuné is also concentrating on materials, as seen in cashmere and chunky wool knits with a range of cozy sweaters in three-quarter zip and V-neck versions. Suiting was looser and fuller for women, and pleated pants were paired with plaid button-downs, while men’s looks were a slim silhouette.
Without a creative head, the brand continues to concentrate on its collaboration strategy and will launch its collection with Autry sneakers in September and Hunter boots in October. The latter is expected to help elevate awareness around the Kitsuné brand in the U.K., where it’s expanding its retail presence.
Elsewhere, Kitsuné continues to establish itself as a lifestyle player, with the opening of its pool club and restaurant complex in Bali last summer.
Longchamp
The cross-Channel ties were a key theme for Longchamp, too. The French house’s creative director Sophie Delafontaine proposed an entente cordiale, blending influences from Paris and London in a fall lineup inspired by a passion for crafts.
Representing one side of the Channel was French artist Constantin Riant, whose blue line artwork dressed workwear jackets, accessories and Pliage bags.
“We love his work and it’s an opportunity to speak of all these little Parisian artisans that give flavor to our city,” said Delafontaine, who met him through her daughter Juliette Poupard, head of events of Longchamp and fourth generation in the family business.
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Tapping the London look, the Longchamp woman had her fill of padded kimono jackets, long cashmere dresses and a shearling vest with cable-knit pattern shorn into its surface that would be perfect for a weekend in the Cotswolds, or could go for a glossy leather miniskirt, trenchcoats and a nylon jacket in the fire red of a double-decker bus.
Another highlight was the hookup with British outerwear specialist Gloverall, which resulted in Paddington Bear-esque duffle coats and a wool version of the Longchamp Roseau tote.
– with contributions from Lily Templeton