Whether it’s novelty fashion or basics, manufacturers said they are keeping a firm grip on their business by providing a steady supply of bestsellers.
Monica Belag Forman, president of Kenar Studio, said the contemporary sportswear house is putting a twist on classic styles with new fabrics or silhouettes.
“A houndstooth check suit is a classic, but we’ll do it in a stretch, or with a hip-hugger instead of a trouser,” she said.
Responding to stores’ needs is another component of success, she said.
“Stores are being more cautious, especially coming out of that difficult holiday season,” she said. “They are buying closer to need, and they want more seasonless, wear-now clothes. They’re waiting to see how the numbers add up. It’s very difficult to plan, but you have to stick to your guns and do what you feel is right.”
Part of that, she said, is keeping the top looks on the line.
“We’re reacting to the strong sellers from our holiday season by going back and doing them in a sharkskin material in new colors,” she said.
Vanessa Hubbard, director of sales for Carol Turner Collection, has targeted easy clothes that can go from work to casual. Linens and rayons in neutrals like sand, white and black are “doing extremely well,” she said.
“They are wear-to-work for the kind of person who isn’t in a very structured environment,” said Hubbard, who is based in Los Angeles. She noted that the neutral colors do best on the coasts, while bright colors are popular in the South and Southwest. But it’s the styling that keeps the retailers writing, she said.
“Stores know their customer, and they come to me for a certain look that they know is a constant,” said Hubbard. To expand its account base, the company is introducing a line of textured cotton separates that have the flavor of the linen group but are slightly lower-priced, at $24 to $34 wholesale.
Linda Swobe, vice president of the bridge sportswear firm J’Envie Sport, said she’s sticking with her company’s classic looks for summer and transition selling.
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“People want to buy clothes they can actually wear,” said Swobe, noting that her business has been steady despite industry woes.
“For the past couple of seasons, because my line is very staid and bread-and-butter for people, it hasn’t been bad for me. I think trendy lines felt the crunch more, but the basics are still selling. If I analyzed my business, all my reorders would be in basics.”
Swobe said she’s also trying to accommodate stores by keeping prices down.
“We kept prices pretty much the same this season. We have to be very price-conscious, so you do end up eating some of the increase — but you try to make it up in volume.”
Brian Chiat, president of the Ahni & Co. showroom in Los Angeles, said he’s been having success with a woven shirt line under the label K.C. Colman.
“We’re able to sell a wide range of retailers, because we have diverse designs and embroideries,” he said. “The shirts wholesale for $29, and we have over 300 designs, so there are very few stores that aren’t willing to try it.”
Chiat said his account base ranges from department and specialty stores to airport gift shops and museums. International business is another boost to the business, he said.
“It’s not our biggest area, but it’s our fastest growing,” he said.
Niche appeal is also working for Berek, a designer-price knitwear company here.
“We’re adding some interesting items such as novelty yarns and giving the line a more contemporary look,” said Sophia Flores, director of sales. “During our Los Angeles market, we showed a mocha sweater with a bouclA collar that everyone [ordered]. We’re also introducing a lower-price line called Berek 2, and a contemporary line for August delivery that will have things like silk ribbon knits, silk fugi yarn and brighter colors.”
Randy Kravis, sales associate for the new Cynthia Rowley knitwear collection, said she’s looking toward styles with a fashion viewpoint to kick off the line’s introduction.
Matte jersey in stripes, solids or with surface detail as well as various yarns mixed with Lycra spandex, are working well right now.
The knitwear will appeal to stores that already carry Rowley’s sportswear, said Kravis, as well as accounts who just want to pick up the line as items.
“It really reflects her wit and whimsy,” she said. “We’re looking to expand beyond the stores that already carry Cynthia and going forward we’ll be even more tied into what she’s doing with her collection.”