When Panerai, now part of the Richemont Group, first set up shop in Florence in 1860, the city also gained its first watchmaking school — marking a point of pride for the city. Over the years, the watchmaker’s feats in design, technical innovation and high-performance engineering have served as a masterclass to watch lovers all over the world.
Here, Alessandro Ficarelli, chief marketing officer of Panerai, talks to Fairchild Studio about the latest offerings being presented at the 2025 Watches and Wonders.
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Fairchild Studio: What was the inspiration behind the latest collection?
Alessandro Ficarelli: The new Luminor Marina collection represents an evolution of one of Panerai’s most emblematic and enduring timepieces, first introduced to the civilian public in 1993. Its origins trace back to the 1950s, when Panerai developed a new luminescent compound for a collection called Luminor, following its earlier innovation with Radiomir.
This breakthrough material, designed to enhance underwater readability for the Italian Navy, eventually gave its name to the entire collection.
This year, Panerai continues its heritage of functional innovation with a refreshed Luminor Marina collection that balances tradition with modernity. The new models introduce subtle refinements in case proportions, making them lighter and more ergonomic, while retaining the bold, recognizable silhouette that has defined the collection for decades. Water resistance has been increased to 500 meters (50 BAR), reinforcing the watch’s status as a true tool watch for extreme conditions.
Fairchild Studio: How has Panerai’s heritage influenced the latest watch collection?
A.F.: Panerai’s heritage has always been defined by technical performance and reliability, and this collection elevates those qualities further. One of the key upgrades is the enhanced water resistance, now reaching 500 meters (50 BAR).
The P.980 movement, which powers the collection, has been rigorously tested in six positions, ensuring greater precision and performance. These technical refinements allow the Luminor Marina to honor its military and naval origins as a supplier of the Italian Navy while offering improvements suited to modern wearers.
Fairchild Studio: What are some of the standout timepieces from the latest collection?
A.F.: Two key models; Luminor Marina Titanio PAM003325 highlights Grade 5 titanium, a material that offers exceptional strength while being 44 percent lighter than steel. Its olive green sun-brushed dial, combined with a dark green scamosciato calf strap, pays homage to Panerai’s military heritage while delivering a modern, technical aesthetic.
Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech™ represents Panerai’s expertise in high complications. This model combines a sapphire dial with a transparent display, allowing a glimpse into its intricate mechanics. Crafted from Platinumtech™, a proprietary alloy harder and more resistant than standard platinum, it reflects Panerai’s continuous pursuit of technical innovation and sophisticated design.
Fairchild Studio: How is Panerai honoring its Luminor Marina watch for today’s consumer?
A.F.: The collection introduces a series of design refinements that enhance both aesthetics and comfort. A new V-shaped bracelet of Luminor Marina PAM03323 adds a contemporary touch while improving fit and flexibility. Titanium in Luminor Marina Titanio PAM03325 — a material deeply rooted in Panerai’s history — ensures a lighter, more ergonomic case without sacrificing robustness.
The movement is refined with updated finishing, and the caseback has been opened, allowing wearers to admire the mechanical works. These updates maintain the timeless appeal of the Luminor Marina while making it more suited to the expectations of today’s collectors and enthusiasts.