MILAN — Spring is generally hailed as the season of new beginnings and transformation, bringing with it a sense of freedom.
Dean and Dan Caten are taking that to heart, revealing on Saturday that they are taking complete control of the Dsquared2 fashion brand they founded in 1995.
This means terminating the licensing agreement with Staff International SpA ahead of its expiration date in 2027, effective immediately and starting with the pre-spring 2026 sales campaign.
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“We are not just protecting our business. We are safeguarding our legacy and our dream which is something deeply personal,” the founders said jointly in a statement sent exclusively to WWD.
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“Refuelled by the creative energy embodied by the anniversary collection, we are invigorated by the principles of empowerment, inclusivity and self-determination that built our fashion house in the first place.”
DSquared2 is marking 30 years in business in 2025, which was celebrated with a blowout anniversary show in Milan last month.
“As the business we created against all odds enters a new era, the courageous move represents our desire to honor and hone the values of autonomy and authenticity at the heart of Dsquared2.”
Staff International has a different view, however, and in a statement said “it has filed a lawsuit on 27th March in the Court of Milan against Grascoe Holdings Limited, Dsquared2 Trademarks Limited and the designers Dean and Dan Caten, in order to assert its right to the full performance of the current license agreement, with all consequent measures.”
Staff International is the manufacturing arm of OTB, which comprises the Diesel, Jil Sander, Maison Margiela, Marni and Viktor & Rolf brands, as well as the Brave Kid childrenswear producer. OTB, which was founded by Renzo Rosso, also has a stake in Amiri. The first agreement with Dsquared2 for the production and distribution of the brand’s ready-to-wear was inked in 2000.
Staff International and Dsquared2 renewed their 10-year-old licensing agreement in 2010 through to 2027. At the time, the renewal was inked a year ahead of the expiration date.
Staff International said “it reiterates its conviction that the license agreement is fully effective and confirms its intention to fully execute it until its natural expiry. Therefore, the company firmly rejects any possibility of early termination of the contractual relationship, and believes that legal conditions for early termination do not exist.”
The Italian company “will continue to act with the utmost transparency and determination to protect its rights, honor its contractual commitments and safeguard its reputation, and reserves the right to take any further action.”
In a tit-for-tat series of statements, Dsquared2 said in its response that, “The Dsquared2 Group and Dean and Dan Caten remain confident in the actions taken and our legal position. The licenses held by Staff/ OTB Group have been terminated and the Dsquared2 Group will be proceeding accordingly.”
It concluded by stating that “as the matter is now the subject of legal proceedings, the Dsquared2 Group and Dean and Dan Caten will not be commenting any further until the Tribunal makes its decision.”
The legal battle marks a sharp reversal in the relationship between the designers and Rosso, which was known to run deeper than most. Case in point: the designers used to call Rosso “papi,” the affectionate Italian term for “daddy.” In turn, he called the twins “figlioletti belli [my cute boys].”
Hailing from Willowdale, Ontario, the Caten twins moved to New York City in 1983 to attend Parsons School of Design, and eight years later they followed their dream to work in Italy, the birthplace of their father.
The Catens stated to WWD over the weekend that their brand is “a testament to tenacity. Raised in Canada between foster care and group homes, we overcame an upbringing of mental and physical exploitation at the hands of authorities and guardians. We created Dsquared2 as a monument to the self-reliance and fighting spirit that paved the way for the freedom we found through our careers in fashion.”
Accordingly, “taken in this spirit, instead of signing a new license agreement, we decided to internalise the production and distribution of our ready-to-wear as also an expression of our unceasing dedication to the unnegotiable values of Dsquared2.”
The designers concluded their statement by expressing confidence in the strength and passion of their teams, giving a shoutout to “trusted advisers and solid financial backing,” which will allow them to move forward “empowered by prospects and excitement for the next era” of the brand.
With “sincere gratitude to the collaborators who have contributed to maintaining the independence and integrity of their lives’ work,” they said they looked forward “to fostering new constructive partnerships in the future.”
The Catens launched their first menswear collection in 1995 under the Dsquared2 label, dubbed “Homesick Canada Collection” for fall 1996, debuting their theatrical runway shows in Milan.
The first Dsquared2 womenswear collection bowed in 2003.
Over the years the Catens have drawn inspiration from their Canadian roots, mixing them with Italian tailoring and sexy party dresses, always injecting a playful undercurrent in their collections, abiding by the “work hard / play hard” motto.
Beachwear and underwear collections bowed in 2012, followed by a childrenswear collection a year later.
The brand also has a successful fragrance business, initiated in 2006 with ICR-ITF Group and the launch of its first men’s fragrance “He Wood” followed by the first women’s fragrance, “She Wood,” in 2008. In 2018, the duo began a partnership with Euroitalia for fragrances.
“We’re always trying to outdo ourselves,” said Dan Caten backstage at the fall 2025 show, an over-the-top spectacle featuring a live performance by Doechii. “We have a story, we have lots to tell, and we have lots to look back at and to look forward to.”
In a poignant letter distributed before the show, the designing twins paid tribute to their muse and fairy godmother, Canadian photographer Julie Enfield, now in the late stages of Parkinson’s disease, who took them under her wing in 1976.
The designers have worked with several musicians, creating costumes for the likes of Madonna, Christina Aguilera, Britney Spears and Justin Bieber, among others.
The first Dsquared2 Milan flagship opened in 2007. Last year, the brand opened a New Bond store in London, as well as in Shenzhen, Wuhan, Dubai and Frankfurt.
In 2013, the Catens channeled their creativity into the opening of Ceresio7 Pools&Restaurant, reflecting their passion for design and art. The venue has a unique view of Milan, located on the rooftop of the Dsquared2 showroom. The Ceresio7 Gym&Spa opened in 2017.