Milano Unica’s 41st edition welcomed 735 exhibitors showcasing Fall/Winter 2026/2027 collections of high-end fabrics and accessories—an 8.7 percent uptick in the Italian textile trade show’s European participants year over year.
Beyond the increased number of exhibitors, president Simone Canclini highlighted the value that first-time attendees bring to the show floor.
“These numbers reflect growing confidence in our trade show and give us renewed responsibilities to support and promote the industry, despite the uncertainties and criticalities of the global economy and the international geopolitical scenario,” Canclini said. “While data from the economic studies and statistics office of Confindustria Moda indicates that we are not yet out of the tunnel, there is a glimpse of light.”
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According to that data from the federation of Italian fashion, Made-in-Italy textiles closed 2024 with total sales of 7 billion euros (about $8.2 billion), down 8.8 percent. Exports amounted to 3.8 billion euros (about $4.45 billion), marking a 10.7 percent dip.
“The trends vary significantly by product segment and destination market, particularly the U.S. and China,” Canclini continued. “The same applies to the divergent trends between the performance of knitted versus woven fabrics.”
That said, those glimpses of light could consider the collections on display at Fiera Milano. Here’s a handful of collaborations coming straight from the show floor.
The Lenzing Group unveiled innovative fiber blends addressing a persistent pain point for circularity: maintaining quality with recycled inputs. Developed in partnership with four Italian manufacturers— spinner Marchi & Fildi, knitter Maglificio Maggia, weaver Destro Fabrics and knitwear manufacturer Madiva—the regenerated cellulosic fiber supplier demonstrated a trio of mechanically-recycled fibers that had consistent, commercially-viable results.
Those innovations—Tencel Lyocell LF, Tencel Lyocell LFH and Tencel Lyocell A100—had “overcome the inherent irregularity and inconsistent quality typically associated with recycled natural fibers,” Lenzing said.
“As brands increasingly commit to incorporating recycled content, they are tirelessly seeking practical solutions that maintain quality standards,” said Carlo Covini, textile accounts manager for Italy and Switzerland at Lenzing. “By combining the inherent qualities and environmental benefits of our Tencel Lyocell fibers with mechanically recycled cotton, silk and wool, we’re bridging the quality gap that has limited recycled content adoption.”
The approach leveraged Lenzing’s various (and distinct) lyocell fiber variants, including those with micro technology—aka fibers characterized by a titer that is equal to or smaller than 1.0 decitex—to address specific recycled material challenges.
“This isn’t just a material innovation,” Covini continued. “It’s a pathway for brands to explore what’s possible in circular fashion while delivering on the premium quality consumers expect.”
Low-fibrillating Tencel Lyocell LF and Tencel Lyocell LFH fibers “contribute exceptional softness and processing stability,” while Tencel Lyocell A100 “enables brilliant color uptake and performance,” attributes the company said are of particular value when working with “inherently inconsistent” recycled fibers.
“This project allows us to take our expertise in mechanical fiber recycling to the next level,” said Alberto Grosso, business development manager at Marchi & Fildi. “Exploring new potential applications for recycled fibers in collaboration with internationally recognized companies is a unique opportunity for us to expand our yarn offering with varieties tailored to specific market demands.”
That approach yielded various applications, too. Results included premium knits combining A100 with recycled silk, wool or cashmere; apparel fabrics blending LF with varying percentages of recycled cotton; and performance constructions incorporating world-first, Cradle to Cradle-certified elastane Roica V5504 alongside Tencel fibers and recycled content.
“We are very happy to be involved by Lenzing in its projects since supply chain projects are always the most successful ones,” said Giovanna Maggia, board director at Maglificio Maggia. “In this case, the chance to use recycled silk together with Tencel is a great opportunity to mix both sustainability and luxury.”
On the topic of luxury, 2025 marks a turning point for the sector, according to Claudia D’Arpizio, senior partner and global head of fashion and luxury at Bain & Company. As new generations seek authenticity and creativity, the central value of the experience is restored.
“Today, luxury must be discreet, genuine and aligned with personal fulfillment rather than ostentation. The segment must also redefine its cultural, generational and geographic relevance,” D’Arpizio said during her keynote. “By 2030, the market is expected to expand to over 300 million new consumers— half of whom will be from Gen Z and Gen Alpha—who are demanding and values-driven consumers. In a world where turbulence is the new normal, companies must show resilience and long-term vision.”
For Asahi Kasei, that was Bemberg: “a rare fiber that’s meant to be lived, not just worn.” Made from refined cotton linter—a pre-consumer material obtained from the manufacturing process of cottonseed oil—that’s then dissolved using a proprietary closed-loop process to produce pure, regenerated fiber.
The Japanese company unveiled 18 partners for Fall/Winter 2026-2027, 14 of which are attending Milano Unica. That includes Prato-born Alberto Bardazzi, early Fashion Forever Green Pact signatory Brunello, Varese-based Ezio Ghiringhelli and Portugal’s Sidónios, among others.
Spanning three “emotional dimensions,” Italian lace manufacturer Iluna Group’s season takes place in the heart, in the mind and in the dream.
The first chapter is expressed through laces and lace patterns evocative of delicacy and sweetness while “in the mind” encompasses lace featuring abstract or stylized geometric elements, the Made-in-Italy company said. Lace with starry dust, layered textures and flocked effects round out the final chapter, in the dream. The group also shared eco-updates like 99 percent recycled yarn offered in select laces; stretch laces with Roica EF assist the fabric in hitting up to 80 percent recycled content.
“The continued growth in both quantity and quality of Milano Unica’s international role is attributable to the exhibitors’ creative and product innovation and the trade show’s distinctive nature,” said Massimo Mosiello, Milano Unica’s general manager. “[It’s] an event created by entrepreneurs, for entrepreneurs, as a collaborative platform to support the excellence of Made-in-Italy and Made-in-Europe fabrics and accessories in the international competition scenario.”
