Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.
Oeko-Tex
Certifying cotton as ‘organic’ is now achievable through Oeko-Tex Organic Cotton,” the association said. “This decision is driven by the dedication to maintaining the highest standards of safety and compliance and was implemented to enhance oversight of certified organic cotton, an area where fraud is prevalent.” Oeko-Tex Association
The Oeko-Tex Association has updated testing criteria, limit values, and certification guidelines based on current research and regulatory changes. Key changes include enhanced organic cotton certification, stricter BPA limits and “rigorous” transparency requirements.
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Oeko-Tex Standard 100 certification will not include “GMO-free” or “organic” claims in the certificate scopes. Organic cotton is now a separate certification, intended to “enhance oversight of certified organic cotton, an area where fraud is prevalent.” Other organic materials—hemp, linen, wool—are unaffected. The independent certification system also reduced the limit value of Bisphenol A (BPA) by 90 percent from 100 to 10mg/kg after consulting with internal and external toxicologists. Endocrinologists and the World Health Organization (WHO) categorize BPA—commonly used for athleticwear—as an endocrine disruptor that can change the hormonal system upon entering the body.
While Europe’s Deforestation Regulation (EDUR) requiring leather supply train transparency was scheduled for enforcement at the end of 2024 before being postponed a year, the Oeko-Tex Leather Standard certificate requires proof of origin receipts for hides and leather material from cattle and calves.
The Oeko-Tex Made in Green label now recognizes Oeko-Tex Organic Cotton as a product certificate, in addition to Standard 100 and Leather Standard.
“This allows companies that have their cotton products certified to combine the strengths of both Oeko-Tex standards: supply chain traceability and verification from farm to product with responsible and safe production,” the Swiss chemical management company said in a statement.
Oeko-Tex’s collaboration with the ZDHC aims to enable the textile, apparel, footwear and leather industries to “improve environmental impact by optimizing guidelines and solutions through joint efforts.” To strengthen that impact, Oeko-Tex Sustainable Textile and Leather Production (STeP) certificate holders are now eligible to participate in the ZDHC Supplier to Zero Program. Qualifying companies can upload their STeP certificate and report to the ZDHC Supplier Platform for acknowledgment within the program.
Starting this year, the Oeko-Tex Eco Passport will expand its certification scope beyond chemicals for textile and leather applications to include commodity and maintenance chemicals. As these chemicals (like sodium sulfate and ammonia) are widely used and produced at the start of the supply chain, the update should simplify monitoring across the sector.
“This expansion aims to phase out harmful substances earlier, enhance worker safety and prioritize environmental protection,” Oeko-Tex said.” Additionally, second-life commodity chemicals will be subject to more frequent testing to ensure quality.”
The revised standards will take effect in April, following the transition period.
Yagi & Co.
Textile trading company Yagi & Co. unveiled its new material made with lava from Mount Fuji during Messe Frankfurt’s Heimtextil exhibition in Germany. Lavatech, which has a high far-infrared effect, is made using “special technology” to finely crush the lava rocks sourced from around Mt. Fuji and ultimately weave them into fibers.
“Since ancient times, the lava rock formed beneath Mt. Fuji has been carefully protected from changes in surface temperature and weathering. Lavatech is made by weaving this high-quality underground lava rock,” Yagi & Co. said in a statement. “This brand of materials enables the creation of new products that address a wide range of health issues in areas such as sleep, beauty and sports through their blood circulation-promoting effects.”
Hologenix
Hologenix is bringing its infrared technology, Celliant, to a new partner.
Austrian bedding company Hefel has joined forces with the infrared tech firm on a collection of eco-conscious bedding designed to enhance sleep quality. This is Hologenix’s debut product launch with Hefel, blending Celliant infrared (IR) technology with Hefel’s experience in high-quality bedding.
“A good night’s sleep can be the catalyst to a great day—when you’re well-rested you might feel happier, more productive, more active. Your sleep sets the tone for the day, which is why it is important to prioritize rest and recovery,” said Seth Casden, founder and CEO of Hologenix. “Hefel is esteemed in Austria as bedding experts, so we were really honored and excited to partner with them on the new Wellness Retreat line. It is the perfect balance of comfort and practicality, and we can’t wait for customers to feel the benefits firsthand.”
The collection utilizes Hologenix’s Celliant Viscose, the first in-fiber sustainable viscose infrared solution promoting better sleep, made with Celliant partner Kelheim Fibres.
The Wellness Retreat Line combines this sustainable textile with Tencel Lyocell to promote temperature regulation, allergy support and moisture control.
“At Hefel, we consider ourselves innovators in the bedding industry and thanks to our partnership with Hologenix, we are able to launch a new regenerative wellness program called ‘Wellness Retreat’ at the Heimtextil Conference 2025,” said Ulrike Hefel, CEO of Hefel. “In the down products of the Wellness Retreat line, Celliant viscose fiber is seamlessly integrated into fabrics crafted exclusively at Hefel’s in-house ticking weaving mill in Austria. In the quilted products, the fiber enhances comfort helping you fall asleep faster, achieve deeper sleep and recover more quickly after physical activity.”
Spanx
Shapewear stalwart Spanx launched SpanxSmooth OnForm, an elevated activewear collection with low-intensity movement in mind.
“Our activewear assortment continues to grow year over year as our customers seek newness within the category to adapt to their ever-changing lifestyles,” Spanx’s chief merchandising officer Kiana Miree said in a statement. “With the launch of SpanxSmooth OnForm, we’re delighted to offer expanded options to meet her needs and preferences, whether dressing for a workout class, everyday errands, travel and beyond.”
SpanxSmooth—a phrase Spanx filed for trademark last August—is reportedly the brand’s most gentle and versatile drop yet, made from “buttery soft fabric that’s breathable, sweat-wicking and quick-drying.” Per the brand’s website, it’s 80 percent nylon and 20 percent elastane.
