Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering what’s changing in how fashion is made, scaled or engineered from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.
Avavav x OnceMore
Avavav is continuing its material experimentation with another round of garments made using OnceMore’s recycled viscose pulp, unveiling new pieces during Milan Fashion Week.
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The Swedish fiber developer and the Stockholm-based, Florence-produced designer label debuted four new shirt styles for the Fall/Winter 2026 season as part of the second phase of their collaboration. The fabrics incorporate dissolving pulp produced from a blend of post-consumer textile waste and wood sourced from responsibly managed Swedish forests.
“As a young brand, access to innovative and more sustainable materials often comes with challenges—from higher costs to minimum volumes,” said creative director Beate Skonare Karlsson, following last weekend’s presentation. “With the backing of OnceMore, Avavav has been able to work with these fabrics in several of its core styles and continue pushing its creative vision with more responsible material choices.”
The textiles were developed with New Focus Textiles, a partner in the OnceMore Together network, and used in several pieces from the brand’s Fall/Winter 2026 collection, including Avavav’s signature cutout ribcage button-up.
According to OnceMore, the pulp can contain up to 50 percent recycled textile fibers and has the potential to reduce carbon emissions by as much as 30 percent compared with conventional viscose production, based on Higg MSI benchmarks.
“Through this creative exchange, we want to make a bold statement: viscose—even viscose made with textile waste—belongs in high-fashion pieces without compromise. Design and quality can thrive alongside innovation,” said Ida Fager Stark, communication manager of OnceMore. “Working with Avavav is an honor because they don’t just embrace this vision, they bring it to life and show that the possibilities are endless.”
The project highlights the ongoing challenge for smaller fashion brands seeking access to next-generation materials, where higher costs and minimum order requirements can limit adoption.
Vegea
Italian biomaterials developer Vegea has expanded production capacity for its grape-derived material, GrapeSkin, as demand grows for alternatives to fossil-based and animal-derived materials.
The Bergamo-based company marked its tenth anniversary with a strategic industrial expansion that adds new production units and upgraded infrastructure to increase output and shorten delivery times for brand partners.
GrapeSkin is produced from byproducts of the wine industry—including grape skins, seeds and stalks—and is used in applications across fashion, interiors and automotive design. Vegea said the expansion maintains the same material specifications and bio-based profile while enabling greater manufacturing scale.
Founded in 2016 by chemist Francesco Merlino, the Stella McCartney collaborator positioned its technology at the intersection of green chemistry, agriculture and materials innovation, transforming agricultural residues into high-value biomaterials.
“Our industrial expansion marks a new phase for Vegea: more capacity, more continuity, and stronger support for brands pursuing a circular materials strategy,” Merlino said.
Puma
Puma is partnering with Chinese materials company Shincell to develop the next generation of the sportswear giant’s “NITRO” running foam technology amid intensifying competition in high-performance footwear.
The agreement will establish a dedicated research laboratory in Suzhou focused on testing new lightweight foam materials for running and other performance categories.
Shincell specializes in physical foaming technologies that expand polymers by trapping microscopic gas bubbles inside the material. The process, per the partners, creates lightweight structures that are designed to deliver cushioning while reducing overall weight.
“This collaboration is a great example showing the value of the technology-focused innovation in the global high-performance sportswear segments,” Xiulei Jiang, CEO of Shincell, said. “We are looking forward to more business success down the road.”
Puma introduced Nitro foam in 2021 as part of a broader effort to reposition its performance running category and has since expanded the technology into other segments, including training, basketball and golf footwear.
“With Nitro we have the best running technology in the industry, and the agreement with Shincell allows us to maintain that edge and make the best even better in future product generations,” said Romain Girard, Puma’s vice president of innovation.
The companies said products incorporating the next-generation foam could begin appearing in upcoming seasonal launches as research progresses.
Graphene-X
Graphene-X has dropped its first women’s collection—a three-piece capsule created in collaboration with graphene technology manufacturer, Kyorene. The Hong Kong-based brand said the drop offers performance properties including thermal regulation, deodorization and UV resistance.
“This collection has its roots in an unexpected place—a virtual yoga class I started hosting for our team during the pandemic,” said Lynn Sha Deligny of Kyorene. “It quickly revealed a gap in the market; though the team was energized by building movement into the workday, needing to change clothes was a real barrier.”
Graphene-X said the capsule features integrated graphene—a smart textile often used in sportswear—directly into the fiber structure, not as a surface coating; more specifically, its trademarked Graphdry and Graphmotion fabric technologies, which reportedly won’t wash out and require less frequent washing overall.
“Women’s routines don’t pause between roles and neither should their clothing,” said Jorge Barros, founder and CEO of Graphene-X. “We applied years of materials expertise to create pieces that look intentional and polished while performing at the level modern lifestyles actually demand.”
The collection comprises a tank shirt ($69) that serves as a breathable base layer with built-in support—including odor resistance. The Thermagraph ($99) pants are pitched as high-waisted and durable with a removable belt. The Everywhere ($119) jumpsuit, too, offers a removable belt, which Graphene-X said “allows for a quick vibe shift from casual to elevated.”
Coats
Thread and materials supplier Coats is spotlighting a range of reinforcement and filler materials designed for luxury handbags and accessories as brands push for durability and sustainability in leather goods.
The company will present four materials from its “Lifestyle Solutions” portfolio during the APLF leather trade show in Hong Kong, including Aquiline, a filler made with Tex2Tex fibers that transform textile waste into a material used in the structure of leather bags.
“In today’s dynamic fashion landscape, brands need materials that deliver exceptional performance and quality while also supporting their environmental goals,” said Nicoletta Baratta, global sales director of lifestyle at Coats. “Our commitment to sustainable innovation, evidenced by products like Aquiline, enables them to meet consumer expectations without compromising design or functionality.”
The group’s lineup also features Pyroflex: its hot-melt reinforcement material that’s designed to improve tear resistance and dimensional stability in structured handbags. Ultrasoft, meanwhile, is described as the company’s high-density nonwoven material, engineered for components that need both softness and resilience.
