The global man-made cellulosic fiber (MMCF) supply chain has undergone what Canopy called a dramatic transformation since its Hot Button Report’s inception—which was just one month ahead of Donald Trump’s election as the 45th president of the United States. The 10th edition of the nonprofit’s tool for measuring MMCF sourcing seems to prove it.
“Supply chain transformation is not only possible,” said founder and executive director Nicole Rycroft. “It’s happening.”
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The milestone edition assessed 98 percent of global MMCF production—featuring contributions from 30 producers—rating companies with Canopy’s (now decade-old) “shirt system.” The results show clear momentum; nearly 70 percent of producers are now earning Green, Partial Dark Green, or Dark Green status—a “sharp contrast” from nine years ago.
“Business-as-usual can no longer be the standard if we’re to keep vital forests standing and stabilize our climate,” Rycroft said. “The leaders in the Hot Button are demonstrating that investing in next gen solutions isn’t just good for the planet, it’s integral to building resilient, low-carbon supply chains [as] to meet brand expectations, mitigate against increasingly volatile raw material supply and long-term business value.”
For a refresher: The shorthand system organizes the producers, based on Canopy’s assessment, on their risk of sourcing fibers from ancient and endangered forests. And that “shirt score” is calculated out of a possible 40 points, otherwise known as “buttons.” Producers can earn buttons for every sincere step taken toward improving their forest sourcing practices—from adopting strong policies to investing in innovative, next-generation materials.
The color-coded system provides an at-a-glance assessment of each producer’s performance. The primary ratings range from Dark Green for industry leaders (producers with 30-40 buttons) to yellow for those initiating CanopyStyle commitments (producers with 10-19 buttons). The lowest, Red in shirt, indicates known risk in supply—producers with nine buttons or less.
“The Hot Button Report is a key tool in guiding our MMCF sourcing, helping us track progress and identify suppliers driving next-generation innovation,” said Michael Jønsson, sourcing manager of Selected at Bestseller. “It connects our ambitions with concrete sourcing strategies.”
The 2025 ratings are led by Lenzing and Tangshan Sanyou—sharing the top spot with 34.5 buttons each—and followed by Aditya Birla in second place with 34 buttons.
Other producers achieving Dark Green shirt status include Jilin Chemical Fiber (JLC), Yibin Grace and Xinxiang Chemical Fiber; all three earned 33 buttons. The primary fiber sourcing tool saw two producers—Saolon (formerly Mitsubishi) and MI Demo—move up from Light Green (“embracing” producers with 25-29 buttons) to Partial Dark Green shirts, each earning 25.5 buttons.
Yibin Grace opened the first recycled dissolving pulp mill in China, while Tangshan Sanyou launched a testing facility for the same technology. The Chinese chemical and fiber manufacturer advanced the development of next-gen lyocell, too. Meanwhile, JLC began commercial-scale production of its Reboocel staple fiber, made with 70 percent FSC-certified bamboo and 30 percent post-consumer recycled bamboo from furniture.
“These MMCF producers are building for the future knowing that circularity will be a focus for fashion textiles,” Canopy said.
Xinxiang Chemical Fiber opened a direct textile-to-textile MMCF facility. The Bailu producer opened a juncao—meaning “mushroom” and “grass” in Chinese, reflecting the hybrid technology’s dual agriculture purpose—plant as well.
“The Hot Button Report gives us valuable insight into forest impacts across our supply chain,” said Madelene Ericsson Ryman, sustainability business expert, raw material sourcing, H&M Group. “It’s clear scoring system and independent audits support our sourcing team in making well-informed decisions.”
Despite these “promising developments,” Canopy pointed to the challenges continuing to constrain scaling next-gen MMCFs, including but not limited to: higher pulp costs, insufficient order volumes and inconsistent feedstock supply levels, among others.
“2025 has been a turn-around year for conventional MMCF producers building early-stage in-house next-gen production capacity,” the report reads, highlighting that brands now need to lean in and use the materials to bolster the scale-up. “We’ve seen that it takes a full’ fashion village’ to scale next-gen solutions to market in a system dominated by legacy infrastructure.”
First launched in 2016, Canopy’s Hot Button Report assesses the world’s largest MMCF producers on their performance in three key areas: raw material sourcing, innovation in low-impact fiber alternatives, and supply chain transparency. The tool works in service of CanopyStyle, the NGO’s global initiative backed by over 550 organizations committed to sourcing lower-impact, recycled and alternative fibers for textiles and packaging, primarily focused on shifting toward more sustainable viscose production.
“Only a decade ago, there were no commercial next-gen MMCF products. Today, numerous next-gen lines are on the market—but the shift must accelerate,” the report reads. Considering the sector is currently growing on a wood-based model, per Canopy—meaning more forests are being cut to meet rising demand—there are expected upsets ahead for the sector. “With intensifying forest fires, conventional MMCF supply chain disruptions are predicted.”
