Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering what’s changing in how fashion is made, scaled or engineered from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.
Polaron
The AI-first materials company Polaron has raised $8 million to build what the UK-based startup is calling “intelligence layer for materials science.” Which means, per Polaron, addressing materials manufacturing’s unrecognized bottleneck: the connection between how materials are made and how they perform.
“For 150 years, industry has used machines to shape materials—now, we’re teaching machines to understand them,” said Isaac Squires, Polaron’s chief executive officer and one of its co-founders. “Polaron is building an intelligence layer powered by the world’s materials data for faster discovery, better design and a new generation of advanced materials.”
After researching the intersection of AI and materials science for seven years, Squires co-founded the Imperial College London spin-out alongside chief technology officer Steve Kench and chief scientist Sam Cooper. Operating across the pond, the company combines “state-of-the-art” generative AI with deep materials science expertise to accelerate the development of advanced materials. Manufacturing players can use Polaron’s platform to “characterize materials, optimize processes and design higher-performing products.”
The 6.7-million-euro round was led by Racine2, an impact-focused investment fund founded by venture capital firm Serena, and Makesense, a Paris-based non-profit financed through partners and client work; its global campaign to accelerate the transition to low-carbon, accessible energy is in partnership with the French-owned, globally-known utility provider Électricité de France (EDF).
“In materials, AI is commoditizing atomistic discovery in materials,” said Alix Trébaol, an investor at Serena. “The winners will be the ones who can predict real-world industrial manufacturability; no one but Polaron knows how to do this today.”
The round received co-investment from Speedinvest, a European venture capital firm managing over $1.5 billion in assets, and Futurepresent, a VC firm that’s “building long-term partnerships” with technology players in the U.S. and Europe. Plus, Polaron received angel backing from “senior figures across the industrial AI ecosystem.” Polaron shared plans to use the capital raised to expand its engineering team, accelerate the rollout of its generative design tools and support customer demand.
“What impressed us about Polaron is its focus on the point where materials innovation often breaks down: translating scientific insight into manufacturable reality,” said Florian Obst, a principal investor on an AI-centric investment team at Speedinvest. “By grounding AI in real microstructural data and industrial constraints, Polaron is building a platform that can accelerate how advanced materials move from research into production.”
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Eastman x Naia Lyte
Specialty materials company Eastman debuted Naia Lyte, a new cellulose acetate filament yarn, at Première Vision Paris—what the global fiber maker said unlocks manufacturing milestones in fiber tenacity performance possibilities.
“Naia Lyte marks a significant development in acetate filament yarn innovation [that’s] already being produced commercially. We’re excited by initial reactions,” said Ruth Farrell, general manager of Eastman’s textiles business. “By increasing the tenacity of our yarn, we are expanding the performance boundaries of acetate and enabling new lightweight fabric applications, while staying true to [what] defines Naia.”
That balance—enhancing performance while preserving appearance—supports applications that need lightweight fabrics as well as sectors with more technical needs. Eastman said Naia Lyte feels silky to the touch, with a natural luster and fluid drape, with benefits like shape retention after repeated washes and anti-static properties.
Last August, Eastman teamed up with Huafon Chemical, a holding subsidiary of the eponymous group—and one of the largest manufacturers of polyurethane (PU) materials on the global market—on a joint facility to produce cellulose acetate filament yarns. More specifically, it was established “to accelerate the innovation and localized development” of cellulose acetate filament yarns. While Eastman’s cellulosic fiber is made from sustainably sourced wood pulp, Naia Renew incorporates GRS-certified waste materials.
In turn, the 2025 collaboration—combining Eastman’s expertise in cellulosic materials with Huafon’s manufacturing means—created a “strong platform for advancing acetate yarn performance,” per the strategic partners.
Haelixa
Swiss traceability technology company Haelixa has raised 2 million euros, the equivalent of around $2.36 million, to expand its DNA-based technology that verifies fabric origin and authenticity inside finished products.
“This investment enables us to scale globally as regulatory and market expectations for traceability continue to rise,” said Patrick Strumpf, CEO of Haelixa. “At the same time, it allows us to expand our offer into anti-counterfeiting, adding a powerful layer of value for luxury brands.”
Existing backers led the pre-series A investment round—deep-tech funding firm Verve Ventures and Zurich Kantonalbank, the biggest cantonal bank in Switzerland—with participation from the impact-focused 212 Next Fund, a Luxembourg-based venture capital fund.
“Lack of transparency in supply chains today poses serious financial and reputational risks for brands,” said Gizem Yağız, managing partner at 212 Next Fund. “Haelixa’s DNA-based approach materially reduces this risk by scientifically verifying product origin and authenticity directly on the product itself.”
Haelixa’s technology is currently compliant with the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), as well as Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex and the Oeko-Tex Eco Passport.
Kering
Kering and the Saudi Fashion Commission have opened applications for the second edition of the Kering Generation Award x MENA—a program that champions promising, sustainable fashion startups—as announced during the opening reception of the RLC Global Forum, hosted at the French Residency in Riyadh.
“The Kering Generation Award was born from our conviction at the group level that sustainability must be a catalyst for innovation in fashion,” said Marie-Claire Daveu, Kering’s chief sustainability and institutional affairs officer. “By nurturing these pioneering solutions, we aim to amplify their positive impact across the industry and reinforce our group’s global commitment to shaping a more sustainable future for fashion.”
Following the successful inaugural edition last year—attracting over 500 applications, 21 finalists and three winners—the 2026 program will swell its impact across the Middle East and North Africa (MENA) region. The program’s expansion underscores the luxury group’s belief in turning ambition into action, according to Kering.
“This region is rich in ideas, creativity and entrepreneurial drive; our role is to help convert that potential into lasting impact,” said Miral Youssef, president of Kering Middle East & Africa. “By opening access to mentorship, global networks, and concrete opportunities to scale, we aim to equip emerging talents with the confidence and capability to build businesses that are both responsible and resilient. In doing so, we strengthen not only individual ventures, but the wider creative ecosystem—and affirm the region’s growing role in shaping the future of global sustainable luxury.”
This year’s themes address critical areas for sustainable fashion within four co-categories: regenerative materials and clean production innovation; circular design and business models; nature and animal welfare; and consumer awareness and cultural engagement.
Startups from the MENA region that operate in or positively impact the sustainable fashion sector—or demonstrate innovation with measurable sustainability outcomes—are encouraged to apply. The second edition also reaffirms sustainability as a central pillar of Saudi Arabia’s fashion future, according to the Saudi Fashion Commission.
“Together with Kering, we are championing the next wave of innovators who are redefining what circularity and environmental responsibility mean for the global fashion industry,” said Burak Cakmak, CEO of the Saudi Fashion Commission. “By empowering startups with the tools and visibility they need, we are not only nurturing local and international talent but also accelerating the transformation of fashion into a more sustainable and resilient ecosystem.”
Applications close March 12.
