Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.
Faircraft
Paris-based lab-grown leather firm Faircraft has secured 15 million euros (about $15.8 million) in a Series A funding round, which will be used to expand its team and scale up its growing process.
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The round was backed by international investment funds, including Kindred Ventures and Heirloom out of the United States; Cap Horn, Alliance for Impact and BPI from France; Blue Wire Capital and Entrepreneur First out of the United Kingdom as well as Sake Bosch from the Netherlands.
“Lab-grown leather represents a major evolution that goes far beyond the fashion industry, and uses cutting-edge technologies to honor ethical considerations,” said Haïkel Balti, co-founder and CEO of Faircraft. “It enables the creation of unique pieces with minimal environmental impact, while offering new possibilities to leather artisans and designers. This technological breakthrough is a tribute to the magic of life.”
The startup, founded in 2021, is developing lab-grown leather that leverages cellular biology to create materials for various uses with a low environmental impact. The 20-person team develops lab-grown material (derived from animal skin cells) that replicates the structure and composition of traditional leather through cellular agriculture processes. It’s genuine leather, just born in a lab instead of on a farm. Honoring that it’s genuine, Faircraft relies on master tanners specializing in luxury leather goods to finish its material—which emits 90 percent less carbon emissions, 95 percent less waste and uses 80 percent less water.
“The luxury market is built on tradition—timeless craftsmanship, unmatched quality and a commitment to excellence,” said Kanyi Maqubela, managing partner of San Francisco-based Kindred Ventures. “Leather has long been the cornerstone of the fashion industry, valued for its timeless appeal and durability, but its production comes with steep environmental costs. Faircraft’s lab-grown leather is a breakthrough for brands and consumers who refuse to compromise between quality and sustainability, and we’re proud to support them as they scale operations and bring this revolutionary product to market.”
Balena x Lemon Jelly
Balena has teamed with Portuguese footwear brand Lemon Jelly on a limited edition purse made with biomaterials.
Dubbed the Nyssa, the handbag is crafted from Balena’s proprietary material, BioCir Flex, and therefore is fully compostable or recyclable. Designed to be both durable and biodegradable, the Nyssa celebrates Balena’s material science innovation and Lemon Jelly’s commitment to responsible fashion.
“With the Nyssa bag, we’re introducing BioCir Flex as a material that not only supports circularity but is also built to be functional and durable for everyday use,” David Roubach, founder and CEO of Balena, said. “This isn’t just about creating a bag that’s compostable or recyclable. This isn’t just about creating a product that’s compostable or recyclable. It’s about bringing biomaterial innovation into the world of luxury and high-performance products, making sustainable choices accessible without compromising on quality or durability.”
The limited-edition bag is designed to last but also designed with its end-of-life in mind. The Nyssa can be seamlessly recycled into new bags or sent to an industrial compost facility, leaving zero waste behind. Upon reaching end-of-life, customers can return the bag to Lemon Jelly for recycling. Balena also established a network of industrial composting facilities, which will be connected to Lemon Jelly as well.
“At Lemon Jelly, we believe that innovation and sustainability must go hand in hand. We are proud to introduce Nyssa, the world’s first 100 percent compostable bag [as] a bold step toward a greener future,” said José Pinto, CEO of Lemon Jelly. “Taking this step only makes sense with a partner who shares our values, like Balena. Together, we’re excited to lead this transformation and invite everyone to join us in this positive change.”
In other Balena news, the material sciences company partnered with Recreus, a leading filaments manufacturer, to integrate biodegradable materials into the 3D print market: a rapidly growing market projected to reach $48.67 billion by 2030, per Vantage Market Research.
Green Theme Technologies
Green Theme Technologies (GTT) has partnered with footwear mill Gold Long John to promote next-gen dyes and finishes.
Last year, Gold Long John introduced the textile innovation company’s Empel finishing platform in its Vietnam factories. This led to the merging of their technologies: GTT’s high performance, PFAS-free water-repellent finish and Gold Long John’s direct dye process.
“We believe ‘Cleaner Is Better’ and this is a big step forward for the fashion and textile industries,” said Martin Flora, president of GTT business development. “Similar to GTT’s Empel application, Gold Long John applies dye chemistry directly onto fabrics. Better performance with much less pollution is our vision for the future.”
Allied Feather + Down
Allied Feather + Down (AF+D) will supply its high-performance ExpeDry ultra-dry down to outerwear brand Montane for its fall 2025 down apparel line.
“Allied introduced the world’s first water resistant down back in 2015 and we’ve learned a lot since then,” said Matthew Betcher, AF+D’s creative director. “Traditional [water resistant] down works great when in direct contact with water, but that’s not what’s happening inside down insulation chambers. Water vapor is the biggest issue; ExpeDry helps keep this vapor from condensing, allowing it to evaporate through the shell more effectively, keeping the down drier for longer and helping it to dry out faster if it does get wet.”
ExpeDry represents the “evolution” of performance down for use in extreme situations, AF+D said, as it replaces chemical treatments with gold particles that are permanently bonded to down clusters. Montane will offer ExpeDry in 100 percent of its down jackets, being the first to adopt the technology over all down jackets.
“At Montane, we are really excited to introduce such a new and disruptive technology from our long-term partners Allied Feather & Down,” said Liam Steinbeck, materials manager for Montane. “ExpeDry is fully aligned with our philosophy as a brand to be one of the first to market with the latest most innovative technologies, bringing unparalleled performance and comfort in the most demanding environments.”
