Suppose the European fashion sector is to meet its decarbonization targets. In that case, the industry needs an estimated 4.4 billion euros ($5.08 billion) by 2030, according to the European House Ambrosetti, also known as the TEHA Group—a sum currently unaffordable for approximately 58 percent of Italian suppliers due to tightening profitability and high debt ratios.
And yet, Italy is where many luxury brands concentrate production; the country accounts for 49 percent of the turnover generated by the six key EU fashion manufacturing countries, the consultancy group’s “Just Fashion Transition 2025” strategic study found. In tandem, a lack of standardized sustainability reporting has made obtaining accurate data on suppliers’ environmental practices something of a challenge.
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In response, leading luxury houses, under the aegis of the Fashion Pact, have launched the European Accelerator initiative.
“This unprecedented level of collective commitment marks an important step forward for our industry,” Eva von Alvensleben, executive director and secretary general of the Fashion Pact, said. “By encouraging harmonized environmental data practices, we are not only strengthening the quality and consistency of sustainability data, but also significantly reducing the reporting burden on suppliers.”
Spearheaded by the Parisian nonprofit, the European Accelerator brings together the likes of Chanel, Ermenegildo Zegna Group, Kering, Moncler Group and Prada Group—and draws on sector-specific perspectives organizations like Confindustria Moda and Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana—to drive forward collective action for supply chain decarbonization.
“This approach streamlines oversight across the value chain and will help brands to accelerate decarbonization strategies,” von Alvensleben said. “It demonstrates the power of collective action in driving systemic change.”
The initiative is structured around three sequential and mutually reinforcing workstreams that aim to accelerate lowering emissions, boosting efficiency and building long-term resilience. The idea is to reduce the administrative burden on suppliers while providing brands with higher-quality, consistent data to inform sustainability strategies and unlock access to finance.
“With the European Accelerator, we’ve been able to strike a good balance between the need of brands to get robust environmental data and the effort of suppliers to provide it,” Edoardo Zegna, chief marketing and sustainability officer at Ermenegildo Zegna Group, said. “Trust, open discussions and willingness to find a common ground are the key enablers of this initiative.”
The initiative’s foundation addresses the problem of inconsistent and burdensome reporting by engaging the industry to define an optional (and non-exhaustive) questionnaire aimed at strengthening data quality and consistency while significantly reducing the administrative burden on suppliers. Once data collection is harmonized and operational gaps are identified, the focus shifts to direct intervention at the supplier level (aka the second workstream). Recognizing the economic realities facing the supply chain, the third and final workstream is dedicated to bridging the investment gap.
“To drive real progress within our sector, we must work together to find shared solutions to common challenges,” Zegna said. “By adopting a harmonized approach, we can encourage the integration of this questionnaire to all the brands of our sector.”
The project has been two years in the making, according to Kering executive Mickaël Maniez, resulting in the creation of a shared audit system based on a universal checklist. Developed with technical support from Quantis, the questionnaire is available to all fashion brands on an optional and non-exclusive basis. The BCG environmental sustainability consultancy company made the questionnaire available, Quantis said, to encourage other brands to adopt harmonized reporting metrics.
“By establishing a harmonized framework for environmental data collection, it facilitates more consistent and reliable reporting, while also reinforcing our shared commitment to support the value chain,” Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group’s chief marketing officer and head of corporate social responsibility, said. “The Accelerator demonstrates the importance of collective action in accelerating the sector’s transition to more sustainable practices.”
Given that the European Accelerator “fosters the exchange of ideas and constructive dialogue,” Albini found the questionnaire useful for all of fashion’s supply chain players, the cotton specialist said of the harmonized approach.
“At this moment in history, the fashion industry is being called upon to implement a concrete and collective change; it’s essential to join forces to promote the sustainability of the entire textile and fashion supply chain,” said president Stefano Albini. “Only through collaboration between upstream and downstream stakeholders will it be possible to define a common approach capable of harmonizing requirements, creating a shared language and leading to greater simplification and efficiency.”
Mantero, meanwhile, found the pilot questionnaire valuable for its consistency. In the past, brands asked the Como-based silk specialist for environmental data in a myriad of methods—now, the family-owned textile company can save time—and improve reliability—with a single set of data.
“The clearer questions help us provide more accurate information and see where we can improve,” Lucia Mantero, product development director of Mantero, said. “Most importantly, this shared approach strengthens collaboration and trust between suppliers and brands, making sustainability progress more meaningful.”
