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Lenzing Uses Waterless Dyeing Tech for Cellulosic Fibers

Lenzing Group has partnered with technology startup Exponent Envirotech to debut Ecohues: a waterless dyeing technology to wood-based cellulosic fibers, including cotton and linen yarns.

Working in collaboration with Hong Kong-based knitwear manufacturer Cobalt Fashion, the yarn dyeing technology was applied to the group’s Tencel-branded lyocell and modal fibers as well as the Ecovero-branded viscose fibers.

And now, the trio is set to bring this “scientific breakthrough” to the mainstream market.

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“At Lenzing, we are constantly collaborating with partners to identify innovative solutions that not only ensure product quality but also strive to reduce usage of our planet’s resources. The collaboration with Exponent Envirotech and Cobalt Fashion is a testament to such dedication, as we bring scalable innovations to the textile value chain,” said Rex Mok, director of technical marketing and development, global textiles business at Lenzing. “We are excited to incorporate Ecohues, a revolutionary dyeing technique, to lyocell, modal and viscose fibers for the first time. With the availability of such technology, we are taking a crucial step toward systematically reforming conventional practices within the textile value chain.”

Ecohues’ technology “effectively replaces” the use of water in the dyeing process with a non-aqueous solvent, Lenzing said, that’s 99.8 percent reusable. That technology streamlines the pre-treatment and finishing processes by “nearly removing” the need for soap washing after dyeing, helping to reduce the overall water usage by 95 percent compared to the traditional method.

“As a company dedicated to sustainable and energy-optimization solutions for the industry, Exponent Envirotech has been a champion of environmental-friendly innovation since day one,” said Wesley Choi, chairman of Exponent Envirotech. “This project integrates sustainable production practices with responsible materials, forging a new standard for resource-efficient and environmentally friendly fashion production within the industry.”  

Ecohues also eliminates the use of salt as a common dyeing assistant used to address the industry’s issue with high salinity in textile wastewater. Lenzing said Ecohues provided 40 percent dyestuff savings, therefore reducing the amount of dye needed to ensure a color fixation rate of over 97 percent—allegedly outperforming the average rate of traditional water bath dyeing by more than 30 percent. The technology can be applied to knitwear, innerwear, ready-to-wear, activewear and footwear where cellulosic fibers are widely used.

“As we strive to lead in sustainable fashion, Cobalt Fashion relentlessly pursues innovative yarns that reduce carbon emissions and water usage while maintaining performance and affordability,” said Andrew Dixon, senior vice president of merchandising at Cobalt Fashion. “Non-water dyeing methods often require less energy when compared to conventional dyeing techniques. This energy efficiency can lead to cost savings for textile manufacturers and contribute to a more sustainable industry. This partnership is an important first step as we join hands to create far-reaching impact and bring systematic change across the textile industry.”