Consumers are craving Y2K-inspired denim that doesn’t compromise comfort, and mills are stepping up to meet the demand.
Last week, Kingpins returned to Basketball City in New York City, bringing together brands, retailers and denim enthusiasts from around the world to preview the Fall/Winter 2026–2027 trends. Here denim mills and fiber producers dish out their latest innovations, from versatile fabrics and nostalgic silhouettes to elevated fades and next-gen fibers.
AGI Denim
AGI Denim is focused on fading for F/W 26–27.
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On the showfloor, the vertical denim manufacturer showcased Ceramic Blue, a new concept that introduces a sharper contrast between highs and lows in abrasion, addressing a “desirable visual effect” in the denim industry known as chip-off character.
“Chip-off refers to how indigo dye wears away from the raised parts of a garment, such as seams, yarn slubs, and puckered zones, where friction is most concentrated,” said Henry Wong, vice president of product development and marketing at AGI Denim. “These high-contact areas fade faster, revealing lighter tones beneath the surface. The result is a strong visual contrast between worn peaks and protected valleys that gives denim its distinctive character.”
Cone Denim
Creating a versatile collection was a top priority for Cone Denim.
Sarah Posluszny, product design manager at the Greensboro, N.C.-based company, noted a growing demand for flexible fabrics paired with the resurgence of Y2K-inspired silhouettes. To meet this need, Cone Denim unveiled “a bunch of newness” at Kingpins New York, including its Rustica collection, which reimagines the mill’s core fabrics with fresh shades and added character.
“Flexibility is really the key whether it’s in the fabric, silhouette or wash,” Posluszny said. “We want brands to be able to use our fabrics across multiple styles without them feeling too pigeonholed or overly niche.”
Eastman
Eastman’s Naia is getting in on the denim action.
Making its Kingpins debut, the first time showgoers showcased a denim capsule collection created in collaboration with China-based denim mill Advance Denim and LA-based designer Loren Cronk.
According to the company, the four-piece collection demonstrated the “creative and technical possibilities of Naia Renew,” a circular cellulosic fiber made from 60 percent sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40 percent Global Recycled Standard (GRS)-certified recycled content.
“You know, a lot of brands don’t want to move away from that authentic denim look and feel. When we blend with cotton, it preserves that heritage aesthetic but adds softness,” said Elyse Batista, marketing communications account manager at Eastman. “With Naia Renew, we’re telling a more intimate story about comfort, moisture management and overall wearability, [something we were] really able to bring to life thanks to Advanced Denim.”
Twin Dragon
Y2K-nostalgia took center stage in Twin Dragon’s latest collection, Resurrected.
“This collection feels fresh and new for younger generations, but for us, it’s nostalgic,” said Stephanie Poon, director of marketing and merchandising at Twin Dragon. “So, for Resurrected, we really focused on those lighter-weight fabrics that work well for seasonal trends and are perfect for the younger generation and us.”
Poon added that the team also embraced looser constructions and wide-leg silhouettes inspired by vintage Chloé.
Isko
Turkish denim mill Isko is broadening its portfolio with trend-driven innovations.
At the forefront is its Born to Amaze collection, created by founder and “denim wizard” Paolo Gnutti. The line pushes the expressive potential of denim through new blends and premium materials along with a diverse palette (which includes deep indigos, blackened hues and earthy browns).
Beyond Born to Amaze, Isko is experimenting with animal and striped prints and embracing looser, Y2K-inspired fits.
“Every season we aim to evolve and bring something fresh to the table, not only to diversify our portfolio but also to give brands and retailers new, trend-forward options,” said Onur Çınar, marketing executive at Isko.
