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With European Lab Acquisitions, Oritain Expands Testing Footprint and Capabilities

New Zealand-based forensic verification company Oritain is preparing for the accelerating demand it sees for “clarity, accountability and trust” by growing its lab footprint.

Oritain has acquired three testing labs in Europe in a move that broadens its service offerings while also boosting its testing speed and capacity. The company—which counts Cone Denim, Shein and Lacoste as customers—has also introduced a membership program, building a “trusted network” among its supplier- and buyer-side clients.

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“Forensic origin verification is now critical and defining the future of global supply chains,” Rupert Hodges, chief commercial officer at Oritain, told Sourcing Journal. “At Oritain we’re harnessing science, technology and services to enable brands to move beyond compliance to verifiable, science-backed integrity.”

This year, Oritain acquired France-based Advanced Isotopic Analysis (AiA) and the Austrian lab Imprint Analytics, and in 2023 it acquired German lab Agroisolab. The company recently began the process of integrating these labs into its operations.

Agroisolab focuses on radiocarbon measurement and stable isotopic analysis, with the capabilities to analyze all bioelements, namely hydrogen, carbon, nitrogen, oxygen and sulphur. The lab can analyze both agricultural products and leather, and it previously provided testing for cotton.  

Imprint Analytics can authenticate cotton, food, cosmetics and pharmaceuticals using sequencing methods ranging from isotope-ratio mass spectrometryand gas chromatography-mass spectrometry to near-infrared spectroscopy.

AiA’s expertise is testing non-traditional isotopes and analyzing elements using plasma source mass spectrometry. The main products it tests are cultivated food items such as wine and tea and extracted materials like oil and gas.

Back row from left, Prof. Russell Frew, Oritain co-founder and chief scientist; Dr. Sylvain Berail, co-founder and CEO of Advanced Isotopic Analysis; Dr. David Psomiadis, co-CEO of Imprint Analytics; Dr. Bernd Bodiselitsch, founder and co-CEO of Imprint Analytics; Dr. Markus Boner, co-founder and CEO of Agroisolab and Katy Wedekind-Boner, chief financial officer of Agroisolab. Seated, Alyn Franklin, CEO of Oritain Courtesy of Oritain

These facilities are joining Oritain’s head facility Isotrace in Dunedin, New Zealand, which was founded in 2003 and specializes in stable isotope ratio analysis, particularly for cotton, leather and other textiles. Isotrace also serves as a center for research and development as well as training.

Representatives from the acquired labs are joining a newly established technical advisory committee within Oritain, which will work to advance scientific techniques and systems for origin testing.

“We are now able to form a globally distributed scientific network with unmatched specialization across isotopic, elemental and molecular analysis that enables more localized access to verification services across continents,” said Hodges.

In addition to its geographic expansion, Oritain recently announced it has extended its testing methodology to leather and timber, helping companies prep for forthcoming regulatory requirements such as the EU Deforestation Regulation (EUDR) and the digital product passport mandate as part of the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR). Oritain can determine the geographic origin of leather from producing regions in Europe, Africa and South America, supporting the fashion industry in making sourcing claims around their leathers.

Membership model

Oritain is also rolling out a new membership model for both buyers and suppliers, with the stated goal of creating a community among its customers who share a dedication to material origin verification and transparency.

Members can choose their tier of membership—from bronze to silver and gold—depending on their needs and level of engagement with traceability. Bronze users get access to the basics, while gold members get perks including faster testing results and partner marketing opportunities.   

“Our goal is to create a network of responsible buyers and committed suppliers,” said Hodges. “By rewarding those committed to integrity, we’re able to help drive shared progress across the value chain. Our membership program is designed to move customers beyond mere compliance to unlocking the strategic value of product sustainability for their brands, customers and investors.”