It was magical. Just beautiful and magical.
It took one hour to reach Brooklyn’s Weeksville Heritage Center from Manhattan. The show was about to take place outdoors when it started to rain. But just as everything seemed to be going wrong, a gospel choir took the stage and started performing in the rain. Then the first model appeared in a stunning fluid white silk dress with giant, dramatic sleeves, a little kid holding her hand. And then the second look, a men’s one — a pale pink and black boxy wrap tuxedo jacket worn with coordinated pants. Chic! Suddenly, a bad moment in the long day of a fashion editor became a special one. One to remember, possibly forever.
Designer Kerby Jean-Raymond hosted a fantastic runway show, filled with great clothes, outstanding creativity, art and a high dose of emotion. The elegant women’s pieces shone brightly in the dark of a rainy September night with their purity, their impeccable cut, the combination of light, neutral tones with bold accents, the beautiful constructions, all executed with a skilled, soft hand. There was a charming lightness in the plissé asymmetric skirts worn with printed tunics or crisp cotton tops with flattering collars that had a slightly Victorian vibe. A draped silk evening dress worked in a deep yellow tone gracefully wrapped around the body, while a sheath frock was embroidered all over with beads, a reproduction of a painting by New York-based multimedia artist Derrick Adams. In fact, the artist’s works popped up in a number of places, ranging from a flowy handkerchief dress and fluid silk pants, to men’s designs, such as an all-over printed short-sleeved shirt shown with matching pants and a great anorak paired with pants embellished with plissé details on the sides.
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The show had the same powerful impact when the designer sent out girls and boys wearing the collection developed in collaboration with Reebok. The graphic Pyer Moss logo appeared on the high collar of jersey tops and ran down the shoulders and the sleeves of a zippered tracksuit. Comfortable nylon maxiskirts were pleated and an oversized hooded poncho was splashed with the capsule’s signature multicolored graphic printed pattern.
Is New York Fashion Week still relevant? With his great, intense, touching show, Jean-Raymond represented the most promising, talented face of American fashion. He symbolizes the most authentic spirit of American culture, one based on a rich patchwork of diversity and inclusion, creativity and freedom, and the ability to excite and entertain with spontaneity.