As is often the case, there was a film-noir quality to Marios Schwab’s spring collection. The show opened with a beige trenchcoat — spliced into a cropped jacket and matching skirt — and concluded with column dresses that married lengths of silk crepe and chiffon with glossy straps resembling electrical tape.
He was inventive, splicing sheer panels into the shoulders of cotton shirtdresses or the bodices of little black dresses. The collection skewed dressy, though in a moody vein heightened by gritty prints resembling crumpled paper or vintage movie posters.
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Scarf-point silk dresses and bi-level skirts revealed flashes of leg, as did unfortunate jersey pants slashed open on the inseams.