Optimism and light. Oscar de la Renta merged the two with panache in his beautiful spring collection. At once youthful and lighthearted, it was packed with odes to nature and exquisite detail that in some cases — the furs — approached couture.
To start, de la Renta used the buffalo check boldly, a blown-up version of the gingham that is becoming one of the big trends of the New York season. His came in pink, light blue (or “Wedgwood,” as the run-of-show called it) and black; on casual coats, cropped tops, pencil skirts and more. When he tucked one such blue silk and cashmere sweater in a clover guipure skirt, it was young and modern. He accomplished the same effect for evening, with several cocktail dresses and dreamy gowns delicately embroidered with flower motifs, some featuring contrast lining in zesty colors. The precision and craftsmanship of these looks added to the buoyant spirit.
The fur trapeze coats were magical, especially the sheared black mink with white tulip intarsia and the blue version stitched with a garden variety, which, like the rest of the collection, was of the enchanting kind.