Derek Lam’s spring agenda was refreshingly straightforward. “An update on American sportswear,” he said before his show. “Really affirming what I love to do.” No spin, just the admirable intention of making great clothes, the kind that earn their keep on elite sales floors such as Bergdorf Goodman, which is giving Lam his first shop-in-shop on its newly revamped sixth floor come spring.
Lam worked magic on trusty classics — the trench, the sailor styles, leanly flared pants— with captivating color and fine details, the best examples of which were the patchwork suedes in dusty purple and deep green. Though he showed less finesse on a series of shells and dresses that were studded in awkward lines around the bust, the collection’s lasting impression was dreamy shades of suede.