Daniele Calcaterra managed to dodge the intermittent rain showers on Friday morning and show his quiet, sophisticated collection outdoors in a tranquil green courtyard just behind Milan’s courthouse.
The designer, dressed in his signature roomy black layers, said he designed this collection “with the eyes of when I first fell in love with fashion,” in the late ’80s and early ’90s.
Cue statement jackets with extra-wide shoulders paired with wide-leg, pleat-front trousers in the style of Talking Heads frontman David Byrne.
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Some of those jackets were cropped while others came with asymmetric button fastenings at the front. An olive one made from stiff, raw silk was a standout as were others designed in flavorsome shades of saffron, mint and nutmeg.
Calcaterra is known for his clean, simple lines and he channeled them into long, slim shirtdresses with loose pleats at the hips or kimono sleeves, and more dramatic silhouettes such as a two-tone opera coat-cum-trench with a long belt knotted at the waist.
Among the other pieces that spiced up this understated collection was a crochet tank dress with long fringes layered over wide-leg jeans, and short, strapless dresses and bodices covered with washed, white feathers, a nod to the season’s love of bird fluff.