“This season, I chose colors and textiles that would complement, rather than distract from the style of cutting that I wanted to highlight,” Mitsuru Nishizaki said in reference to his latest offering. He attached straight strips of fabric to garments using curved seams, creating movement and adding interest to otherwise simple shapes.
The look: Shot in a manmade forest flooded with strategically placed pools of water, the video presentation for Ujoh’s latest collection emphasized a juxtaposition of the natural and unnatural. The designer placed importance on curved lines, showing blazers for both men and women with curved cutouts, and triangular shaped half-vests layered over both shirts and jackets. Nishizaki collaborated with painter Kanako Sasaki on a series of abstract prints created from fluid brushstrokes.
Standout pieces: Asymmetric skirts, jackets and dresses in summer-weight wool gabardine were a new take on softly tailored suiting, and triangular-shaped half-vests acted as tonal layering pieces to further enhance the fashion-forward looks. Black on gray or blue on white embroidery in patterns that resembled Portuguese tiling added texture to relatively simple tops and dresses accented with curved ruffles.
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Takeaway: The unique shapes created by Nishizaki’s original style of pattern cutting, along with the striking venue in which he shot his video presentation, left an impression. The designer showed a collection that was unique enough to be of the moment, while still maintaining a sense of timelessness.