Mother of Pearl creative director Amy Powney always likes to offset the label’s signature frills with some contrasting element, “to prevent things from getting too twee.” This season, she toughened things up by channeling Nineties grunge, as captured in the light-filled images of British photographer Mark Borthwick. She also saw Stella Tenant — whose androgyny and punk style made her one of the era’s top supermodels — as a muse, whipping up micro-floral printed shirts and dresses that she paired with clunky sandals, creepers and floral-printed sneakers.
For the softer side of the collection, Powney referenced Victorian boarding school uniforms (think “Picnic at Hanging Rock”). It lent a maidenly charm to the looks, especially the gingham dresses and overalls. Pearl-embellished sheer tulle blouses and ruffled trousers were another nod to traditional schoolgirl garb, particularly nightgowns.