Miuccia Prada has heralded the arrival of the “post-modest” era, among titles she could have given to her men’s spring 2016 show, in which she embedded her boldly graphic women’s resort collection.
There was a punk spirit in the way she splashed what she called “stupid” symbols — rabbits, race cars, spaceships, arrows and eyes — onto wet-look snakeskin coats, sack-shaped tank dresses, sailor sweaters and even her fetish pleated skirts, usually the epitome of demure.
Only the show-stealing coats could drown out the cacophony of print motifs, spliced together into thigh-skimming T-shirt dresses and slinky tube skirts. They were spangled with gleaming black or silver plastic discs that echoed the show set: an elaborate ceiling of geometric stalactites in clear fiberglass and silvery polycarbonate.
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Accessories were similarly bold, including pointy mary janes bearing racer stripes or neon arrows and small bowling bags dotted with spray-painted eyes X-ed out in blue. Censorship? Prada isn’t having any of it.