Mihara Yasuhiro said his image of Tokyo was the main inspiration for this spring show, which was presented on a runway strewn with debris, such as wooden boxes, empty cans and paint canisters, over which flames intermittently spurted. Specifically, it was underground culture from the Nineties — a time when the creative director considered self-expression to be authentic — that helped craft his fashion.
For a second season, Yasuhiro used a reconstruction technique that fuses pieces such as sweaters to overcoats and trenches to denim jackets. Looks were literally mash-ups of garments, sometimes inside out, providing an interesting — though sometimes dizzying — effect.
A few technical jackets had garment bags attached to their backs. One look featured a gray jean jacket with a split sleeve revealing a camo-printed sleeve, while the other jean jacket sleeve was nowhere in sight and there instead was the sleeve of an underlying sweater. The same model wore trousers with one leg of camo-emblazoned material and the other of black fabric.
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An open black jacket revealed a red-and-black checkered layer and a gray T-shirt was fused under the collar. Tags cryptically reading “Justified Error Association Membership Form” were stitched on the outside of many garments, rather than their insides, where tags generally are placed.
There was a military vibe that infused this deeply urban collection, which ultimately blended well into today’s topsy-turvy world.