The 1984 film “Miami Vice,” for which Nino Cerruti designed the costumes, introducing Americans to a whole new casual way of dressing à la European (think T-shirts under jackets and leather shoes worn without socks), was the point of departure for this super-relaxed, sportswear-focused collection.
The silhouette had loosened up, with slightly oversize tailoring and a fresh color palette hooked on dusty blues and salmon, with pops of lime and electric blue. Key items included the unconstructed long coat and oversize short.
Jason Basmajian resurrected the V-neck shirt and brought back logo Ts and archival graphics on white labels placed low down and to the side on sweatshirts. He also sent out a luxed-up version of one of the season’s staples, the jogging jacket, revisited in silk and jacquard with napa leather. Details included trailing self-belts, keychains and elastic waists.
The looks mixing foliage prints and stripes caught the eye, as did the summery silhouettes in natural fabrics like on an outfit juxtaposing two different stripes on a coat and shirt worn with navy Bermudas, and on the decolored, lightweight hooded poncho that accentuated the line’s youthful streak.