Charles Jeffrey earned a scholarship to pay for his Central Saint Martin MA course tuition but, in order to afford the many materials he needed to produce his graduate collection, he started running a nightclub called Loverboy at Vogue Fashions. It was the kids that patronized the club that inspired the loud and exuberant colletion designed for standing out in a crowd of standout outfits. There were lots of jeans in Eighties shapes that been covered in daubs of colored paint, sequined or brocade tops, and a couple of impressive feather coats worn by dancers from the club. Models sported more wearable pieces, including well-cut Teddy boy coats in sky blue and red, and a great pair of paint-daubed wool shorts that were worn with a raw-edged knit tee.
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As emerging designers go, Grace Wales Bonner is a rarity: a designer with a concise vision and the ability to make clothes that look beautiful and luxurious. Her spring collection, the second she’s shown at Fashion East, was inspired by the story of Malik Ambar, a destitute Ethiopian who wound up a ruler in Western India. Those Indo-African themes made for beautiful embellishment – like the crystals and seashells that adorned the edges of a Nehru collar linen jacket. The rust double-breasted jacket with matching trousers alluded to colonial style, while a pale gray velvet ensemble was an interesting effeminate touch.